Day 15 - Idiots abroad

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October is Cuba’s wettest month so today we tried to make the most of some good weather at Playa del Santa Maria. It’s one of the beaches in Habana’s Playas del Este region. The sand isn’t as white, and sea not quite as crystal, as the beaches of Veradero, but it was amazingly peaceful. You could pick your own 100m stretch all to yourself, if you wanted. The only other people there were a few Cuban families and the occasional old, hairy, white guy splashing about with his beautiful, black, Cuban girlfriend. I would love to show you some pictures of this charming stretch of beach, but the only one we have is obscured by Ian’s big toe. I was slightly annoyed, but I didn’t say anything. He was already struggling enough. Really struggling.

Despite functioning at around 30%, Ian can still smell rain from miles away and we were safely on the Habana Tour Bus back to Centro (a bargain at $5 return) when the heavens erupted. On the drive back, I noticed that the few hotels along this stretch of beach were soviet-style blocs, devoid of any life, and the bars and restaurants were over grown with weeds and pretty empty. It might be low season, but I couldn’t help think that with a dash of capital investment and sprinkle of deregulation, you could really do something with this place. Ian didn’t notice any of this because he was really, really struggling.

It turns out that all he needed was a surf ‘n’ turf platter at one of Habana’s poorly advertised Spanish-run restaurants and a couple of Bucaneros down him. It’s true there are no commercial adverts in Cuba, but it was like someone was actually trying to keep Los Nardos a secret. It was hidden above an abandoned supermarket opposite Capitolio and then you have to take a left halfway up the dimly lit to staircase to find the actual restaurant. Even if you do find it, you’ll find they’ve got a strict “no beaters policy” which must surely turn most tourists away. Fortunately for us two, the bouncer on the door conjured up two trendy dinner jackets out of nowhere – you’ll find this kind of sorcery happens all the time in Cuba.

The restaurant was absolutely packed. We looked absolutely ridiculous in beaters and dinner jackets waiting for a table in front of some stylish Spanish clientele. My Dad and his mate used to roll the sleeves up on their jackets back in the day so we tried that. It seemed to work because we were immediately seated and lots of people were staring at us. The service was professional, the portions were large and the prices were fair. They even had a decent wine list. The highlight of the day came when Ian gave the last of Luis’ hats to one of the big friendly bouncers on the way out. I’ve never seen such a big man look so genuinely happy.

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Photos

Cary and Carmen
At our casa