Antigua and then home

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Our early morning flight landed us on the tiny island of Antigua, the smallest and last island on our trip. It was always a British island, never changing hands until it became independent in 1981. We built so many forts and garrisons that the French could never take it from us. Antigua is now home to some interesting and rich expats including Eric Clapton who has an estate on Indian Creek Point.

We took a local minibus to our hotel in English Harbour, a large village set between two deep natural harbours. The small 6 room hotel was built by an English couple who sailed across the Atlantic with their children 23 years ago. They sailed the length of the Caribbean, from Venezuela to Florida, before deciding to settle down here.

It is a tradition on Sunday evenings on Antigua to watch the sun go down from Shirley Heights. We take a water taxi across to Galleon Beach and walk up to the top of the hill – once a fort. A 16 person steel band started playing as we approached and we gently partied the night away, drinking a few rum and coconut cocktails. The steel band music was just wonderful, ranging from reggae to a polka via jazz and some light rock and roll. Below us the sun slowly set and the lights of the boats in the harbours sparkled.

English and Falmouth Harbours are such a good natural anchorages that the British built a naval dockyard between them. It was used by a young Horatio Nelson when he was protecting our islands and the sugar cane trade from pirates. He was also stopping locals from trading illegally with the newly independent America. The dockyard is now beautifully restored and home to many sailing oriented businesses.

In every direction there are yachts – small ones, big ones and huge ones. There are a few large motor yachts but sailing is what it is all about and we are lucky enough to be here for the start of the RORC Caribbean 600, a six hundred mile yacht race around the islands. Entries range from a little catamaran to huge racing mono-hulls and five super-yachts with twin 60 metre masts.

We took up position on Fort Charlotte, the land end of the start line. When we hear the starting gun, all the yachts turn to cross the line, jostling for position. From our high viewpoint, it makes a great spectacle as they race towards us and then tack out into open sea. But not everyone is ready. The little catamaran bobs off as if on a day cruise, one yacht can only get a single sail up and another crosses the line 20 minutes late but that is, apparently, OK. Since the fastest ever time for the race is 40 hours, there is plenty of time to catch up.

Travelling around with locals in minibuses gives an insight into their culture. Everyone is very polite – it is bad form if you don't say “good morning” to the other passengers and they will all reply. Everyone has too many bags but, rather than being upset by this, everyone helps each other, especially the more elderly. “elp sis with 'er bags man” a passing lad is asked, and he does. Cheeky remarks from the drivers are quickly replied to or put down with a “I done take none of your sassing”. The radio is always on and many sing along quite loudly and, lucky, quite well.

And so we ready ourselves to return to Porlock. It has been a great trip, every island different. St Lucia had a great Caribbean atmosphere, Martinique some wonderful white beaches. Dominica gets the environmental award and Guadeloupe has great mountain walking. And on Antigua, the music never stops. What they all have is friendly locals, cheap rum and lots of lovely sunshine.

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