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I thought traveling through the Balkans would be a quiet way to end the trip. I wasn't even going to write a blog here (that's right, Joanne). Fortunately, or unfortunately, I am shocked and awed by how deeply the war has wounded this region. Being the powder keg that ignited WWI, Sarajevo is a microcosm that showcases the complexities in the Balkans. Over the centuries, people are forced to take on different religious, cultural, and political identities. Orthodox, Catholicism, and Islam are practiced on the same street. Austro-Hungarian, Turkish, and Communism (let's call it a type of culture for a moment) crafted the city into distinct neighborhoods. Serbs, Bosnians, and Croats all want a distinct homeland of their own. The demarcation of the Yugoslavs let to the polarisation of each other, as everyone strives to hold ... read more

We drove over 440km from Shiraz to Esfahan, passing pastures and arid mountains resembling parts of Southern California. Although Iran has one of the highest accident rates in the world, it is well developed in certain aspects. When buses or trucks travel between major cities, they have to register with the police and get a GPS card, with which the speed can be tracked. At gas stations, refueling is done with smart cards, where each personal car is allowed three liters per day to curb over usage. Esfahan nesf-e jahan; Esfahan is half the world. The ancient proverb given by western travelers still holds truth. Once known as the richest city in the world, Esfahan rivaled Rome, Paris, and Florence. Even with wars ravaging the city for over 1,000 years until the end of Iran-Iraq war, ... read more

Boarder crossing was smooth. We walked across the no mans land, an abandoned cotton field from Uzbekistan to Turkmenistan. Even as an18yr old soldier with WWII issued AK47 stared at us full of curiosity, immigration and customs were relaxed. But I suspect without a tour group, getting visa would be difficult, especially given Turkmenistan governments extreme xenophobia. Momentarily after the crossing, we hopped onto a Boeing 717 to fly from the boarder city of Dashoguz to Turkmenbashy (eastern shore of the Caspian). The 1hr flight costs $27, alleviating much of my concern that it costs only $2, like the guidebook says. The flight itself was smooth. With the countrys deep petro dollar well, it can definitely keep a well oiled flag carrier. But the pestering flies inside the cabin made me think the cargo was full ... read more

Uzbekistan has many firsts and largests. Muimubarack Madras in Tashkent has the first Qur'an, created by Calif Osman in 648 AD. Bibi Khanym mosque in Samarkand is the biggest mosque in the east, constructed by Timur in 1403. Uzbekistan has the most diverse rulers over the millennium, with Persians, Alexander the Great, Arabs (replaced Zoroastrianism), Genghis, Timur, Czars, and Soviets taking turns ruling the land. We've been in Tashkent and Samarkand so far. First thing that jumps out is the incredibly clean streets. There is no trash anywhere, even in dark corners of the old city (Melody should relocate here). Second thing that jumps out is the people's features. The genes are so well mixed over. With its complex and colorful history, every notable place here had multiple names, each one signifying the fall and rise ... read more

Kashgar, the city that used to be central Asia's nexus on the southern silk road, now borders Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Tajikistan. While Urumqi is the official provincial capital , Kashgar is the Uighur's unofficial capital in Xin Jiang. Kashgar's population is 94% Uighur, with the rest made up by Han (4%) and other ethnicity. Tajiks are Shi'ite, while Kyrgies and Uighurs are Sunni. The latter two have some inter-marriage, but overall it's a very separated community. Similar to Tibet, the entire region here is high altitude, averaging 3200m, with highest inhabited zone at 4200m. Our itinerary was packed, visiting each of the following sites per day: Tashkurugan-Karakul Lake-Taklamakan desert-Kashgar old city/market-Shipton's arch. I've been taking random notes and thoughts throughout the trip, so the rest of the blog might seem piece mealed. Communication with the outsid ... read more