Jonathan Wallen

wanderingwal

I'm 24 years old and have just finished a year abroad backpacking. This blog was originally posted on the STA Travel website but I thought I'd upload it to a ...better site. I've played around a bit with the dates posted so that the order is correct.

'Boxhead' by the way, is the nickname of one of my travel companions.



Travel Blog Posts


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wanderingwal
February 10th 2012

The cold rain whipped inside the speeding tuk-tuk’s plastic covers, soaking our clothes and chilling us to the bone. We had woken at dawn to begin the two-hour journey to the lost Khmer temple of Beng Mealea, located just 77km outside of Siem Reap in northwestern Cambodia. We finally come to a halt in large dirt clearing. A few restaurants and stalls, selling fresh coconuts and souvenirs, the only indication we’ve arrived. We step out of the little compartment and stretch our limbs; our driver gratefully walks away from the handlebars, his palms pressed hard into the small of his back. A long causeway leads to someplace partially cloaked by trees; its surface riverine with cocoa-coloured water. As far as we can tell, there is nobody else around. At the end of the causeway we’re greeted ... read more



$EX, $EX, $EX

Published: January 20th 2012Asia » Thailand » Central Thailand » Bangkok
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wanderingwal
January 19th 2012

Another friend had just flown out from the UK to meet us. So now we were a foursome. His snow white, sweat-slicked skin like a shiny beacon to the touts on the Khao San Road. As though someone distracted by the sights, sounds and smells of the city for the first time is more likely to exchange baht for a tailored suit. As well as knock-off replicas, the salesmen pop their lips like a fish and tellingly whisper “Ping Pong? “Sex show?” In their hands, little laminated menus that divulge the order of events. Like the good hosts that we are, we wanted to show him a good time. I’d been to one of these shows once before, four years ago, when my older cousin had dragged me to one. He was supposed to be looking ... read more



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wanderingwal
January 17th 2012

We’d been kicked out of the cool air of the library at closing time; downcast we dragged our feet back towards the hostel. We began climbing the hill leading to King’s Cross, Sydney’s least salubrious area, that little dorm on our minds. Through creative use of little space, four bunk beds had been squeezed into it. The library had provided us with some relief from the heat but now we were stuck with it. The room was small and stifling; I remember waking up every morning soaked with sweat, my covers and pillow damp. There was a small fan in the corner of the room, but the grill on its front was so built up with dust and grease that even when holding your hand up to it there was nothing. You couldn’t even see the ... read more



Tunnel rat

Published: January 2nd 2012Asia » Vietnam » Southeast » Ho Chi Minh City » Cu Chi
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wanderingwal
January 2nd 2012

I shuffle through the tunnel, making enough noise to be heard in Saigon. My thighs burn with cramp forcing me to change position - I’m in danger of being engaged spread-eagled. My pack causes me to get stuck and I have to jiggle it off and hold it in front of me. I’d been separated from the platoon that I had arrived with. I had studied their faces during the journey here. I could tell they were green, first timers. This was my second tour of ‘Nam. I’d spent three comfortable days in Saigon before now. The mushrooming city was how I remembered it. Every bit of available space occupied, either by tall, impossibly narrow, skyward-shooting apartment buildings, mopeds or people it seemed. Our position was just outside of the city, at the Viet Cong tunnels ... read more



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wanderingwal
December 4th 2011

Cecilia met us outside Loki, the party hostel, and from Loki we followed her to the otherwise typical Plaza de San Pedro, different only for the monolithic building on its east side. San Pedro prison in La Paz might be the most notorious prison in South America. A city within a city, the prison is entirely run by its inmates. An enterprising British inmate named Thomas Mcfadden started running tours of the prison over a decade ago, and despite having long since been released, the illegal tours continue. Aussie backpacker Rusty Young went on to write ‘Marching Powder’ after befriending McFadden on one of these tours and voluntarily spending three months inside with him. We’re instructed to enter the prison in two’s. Bolivian women carrying bundles wait outside the former monastery but we’re escorted right past ... read more



Notes from the UK

Published: November 8th 2011Europe » United Kingdom » Wales » Newport » Caerleon
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wanderingwal
November 17th 2011

You know how the film ‘The Hurt Locker’ is all about how war is a drug? That the ‘rush of battle is a potent and lethal addiction’. Remember the scene at the end of the film that shows Jeremy Renner on leave walking through a supermarket bored? That is how I have felt since being home. Picture me in Sainsbury’s and you have that exact scene. There is a famous saying: “No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow.” And it is true. Now that I have been away, I realize it’s all I want to do. But unlike war, travelling doesn’t require me to face death and dismemberment on a daily basis, just every now and then when I splash out ... read more



WE LOVE PINAS!

Published: October 9th 2011Asia » Philippines » Manila
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wanderingwal
November 15th 2011

This isn't as good as I had hoped it would be - I had such a blast in the Philippines that I waited until I was back in the UK to write it... Think that says more about the Philippines than I ever could!? We were in Baguio when the typhoon hit. We were hoping to see the Ifago rice terraces but none of the buses were running because of the weather, and now we were stuck. I didn't want to go back to Manila. It was either that or stay here. Outside, the pattering of rain could be heard throughout the day and all through the night. Our clothes hung sodden in our cold, damp room. The news broadcast pictures of Manila's main boulevard deluged with rushing water, its palms bent in the wind. Our ... read more



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wanderingwal
November 14th 2011

The boat says 'maximum capacity = 125' but there are at least125 people queuing up on the pier, the boat lit up like a beacon in the warm night. We're delayed; they keep winching the engine out and putting it back in, and everybody's impatience is palatable. Nobody is looking forward to this overnight voyage and they're anxious to get it on with. Our boxy-looking vessel looks like a slave ship, or like something from a human trafficking operation. Narrow, dirty mattresses are lined up next to one another with barely enough room between beds for your shoulders. At least there's no bucket in the corner. There is a toilet, somewhere, not that we can reach it. People with numberless tickets left to find space anywhere they can block the aisles obstructing any kind of movement ... read more



18m under the sea

Published: October 8th 2011Asia » Thailand » South-West Thailand » Ko Tao
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wanderingwal
November 10th 2011

It was day four, the final day of my PADI Open Water dive course and my nerves were in overdrive. I'd had a restless night. Lying there breathing slow, deep breaths as though I still had a regulator in my mouth, the thought of getting back into the water terrified me. I could only think of what could go wrong. I'd struggled to with my buoyancy the day before, shooting upwards like a top, a sure way to the bends. I was convinced that I was going to be due a stint in the decompression chamber on Koh Samui. I thought the butterflies in my stomach were going to burst out like a scene from 'Alien'. We were on Koh Tao, Thailand's dive mecca and the cheapest place in the world to learn. Unfortunately we converged ... read more



Blood, Sweat and Rice

Published: November 9th 2011Asia » Cambodia » North » Battambang
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wanderingwal
November 9th 2011

Originally 21st August 2011 As we pass endless rice fields on the way to Kampot, I think that the people here must never go hungry anymore. It pours with rain and everybody on the bus is freezing because the air conditioning works too well. I don't care though. Kampot is near the coast, though not close enough that it has a beach. The battered wide roads are dotted with puddles and that ubiquitous dusty stuff that seems to mark the edges of every road in Cambodia turns black like peat from the rain. It's another big colonial spot; Parisian lampposts run alongside the river, and French cafes are three a quarter. Left out in the cold (or hot) by my friends, I go on a day trip to Bokor Hill Station. Bokor is one of Cambodia's ... read more






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