The Lhasa express is a very special train. Constructed for use at high altitude it has well sealed doors and inter carriage walkways. It has its own oxygen creation system which pumps oxygen into the train and, we are told, effectively maintains the altitude at between 10-12,000 feet. The berths are comfortable, the sheets perfectly starched and most of the train crew speak some English. This is without doubt a prestigious train service for China Railways. We piled into our compartment and stowed our bags. We had booked the fourth berth for Nigella, our rather small cool box. Rather than filling her with beer, we had filled her with tea and coffee. While this may sound ridiculous, it kept us happy. The train climbed out of Xining and around a brown valley. Soon a snow capped
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