turkishraf

Farhat Jah
Joined: March 6th 2008
Logged in: February 3rd 2012
Raf lives on Pemba, a smallish Island in the Indian Ocean. 30 miles off the coast of Tanzania and surrounded by water 800-3000m deep, it is truly off the African continental shelf. Raf spends 8-9 months of the year running Swahili Divers and a beach camp called "the Kervan Saray" (or travellers rest house). When he is not diving, Raf travels the world aimlessly in search of places with few tourists and a large sense of history. He is rarely successful in finding "that place", but "its fun getting it wrong".

Raf can usually be found 90ft down on a coral reef in the Indian Ocean or lying on a berth on some rattling Ekspres in central asia, watching the scenery go by. Rarely without a camera, and a great proponent of film, his images can be seen at www.farhatjah.com.

Originally started as a home for a newletter, these pages have now become something more, a list of facetious or amusing comments on life as it slides past the train window, or underfoot in some mountain range. Enjoy reading the pages and of course divers are most welcome in pemba. www.swahilidivers.com

Travel Blog Posts



The ATR 72 made a wide turn over the Mekong hills, over a bend in the river. The plane curved again around the lush but steep hills. Soon enough we were below the hills and flying up a valley. A small tin roofed town came into view; an unassuming place in a bend in the river. A temple went by my left side, level with the wing, we descended rapidly and then with a crunch we were down on an asphalt air strip. We rolled and the pilot used reverse feather on the propellers. The door opened at the back, it was surprisingly cool. We were first off the plane and strolled to the small concrete building with an old, communist era control tower. This was Luang Prabang- and we had landed in Laos! Laos was ... read more

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The old turboprop swooped low over the Indian ocean. The high wing allowed the passengers to see the clearly marked fringing reefs, with settlements and tourist hotels below. The pilot altered pitch on the propellors and the twin turbines emitted a new growl. It was almost as if he had changed down a gear. Flat arable land appeared under the wings and then the shanty town that was the capital of Zanzibar. People expect Zanzibar to be a world heritage site with ancient stone buildings, created in an arabesque comorian style; but while this exists, most of “Stone town” was a tin roofed shanty. The taxi cruised smoothly into town. Car washes, small shops and street mechanics lined the airport road. We left in doubt that Zanzibar was a third world country. A thriving, bustling alive ... read more

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We wake early for the Singapore Airlines flight to Indonesia. Due to flight schedules, we are forced to spend a night in Singapore, and we intend to make the most of it, with the first flight out of Bangkok. The 777 is full. I read my book and two hours later we crunch down on the Island state. I have happy memories of Singapore. I first came here in 1994 when Singapore had as slightly dirty feel to it. Storm drains, rats in the streets, street markets, hawkers food and reasonably priced beer. When I first came to Singapore, there was a small but thriving backpacker scene. Guest houses that were little more than flats were popular with commercial divers and travellers alike. By now most of these have closed down. Upon landing the entire aircraft ... read more

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The Turkish Airlines Airbus-A340 flies through the night and tropical storms, over the arabian sea, India and then the bay of Bengal. It makes a small incursion, indeed a slow turn, over the South China Sea on final approach to Bangkok’s new airport. With a reassuring crunch we make contact with earth again. I am in Asia. I have come from Asia, but this is a different asia. Perhaps I should I talk of Bankok and the degradations, depravations or sleaze? The women who sell themselves for the equivalent of two pints of beer in London. Those who greet my friend dave like a returning rockstar, when all they really want is easy money. They know that their greeting and forceful hanging onto his arm means that his generosity will flow, and with it, their standing ... read more

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It is time to leave South Eastern Turkey and go to South East asia. But even that takes time, and takes me to some of Turkey's most hospitable people; who just happen to be Kurds. I arrive in Diyarbakir on Sunday. It is quiet. Not a plane to be seen. It is strange, more Turkish spoken is spoken here than in Mardin, I hear very little Kurdish. An ancient Renault 12 drops me at the Hotel Derya. The receptionist warns me “The terror has gone but the thieves are here- watch your stuff” “What a pain” I think. It is warm, I stroll down the main road towards the Mardin Kapi. I stop at a Grey and White stone Han. Then I find myself Walking around Diyarbakir in the midday sun, up onto the high ... read more

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The Cessna Caravan left the blustery skies of the east African coast. Once again I was off Africa. It did not matter that I was flying to an Island that was a district of Tanzania, I was off Africa and I knew it. I always have this special feeling when crossing the African coast. I have mentioned this in previous blogs, perhaps it is the realisation of the enormity of Africa that is only visible from the air. It just goes on for ever, without a town in sight. The airline was even called Tropical air. We were flown by owner commander, Captain Omar. He had a young Frenchman as his co pilot. Omar was an old hand of African flying. He flew us high over the Indian Ocean before we curled in towards Mafia Island. ... read more

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IS WIKIPEDIA LOOSING ITS CREDIBILITY? I am rather worried about Wikipedia. Everyone seems to think that it is an online encyclopedia. Unfortunately it really isn't. Wikipedia allows people with their own agenda to add pages and information. This is done under the mantle of impartiality. At the moment, there seems to be an anti Turkish campaign going on in wikipedia. Everything from Turkish Airlines, to the Turkish Army, to The Turkish Government, to Turkish Democratic efforts, and finally to the Turkish People themselves; are being attacked. Sometimes quietly- and sometimes openly. As a very moderate, very modern and super open minded Turk, I would be the first to admit, that while Turkey is an attractive nation, with kind hospitable people, it also has it's share of failings. Despite the arguments of some, not everything Turkish ... read more

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In the shadow of Halep, A journey’s to Gaziantep and Turkey’s dusty but charismatic south I have always been a train buff. Not someone who can tell the difference in locomotive horsepower, or when a steam engine was made, but someone who likes the slow clattering laid back way of moving across the world. Of course some trains are filthy and unpleasant, and some are “super deluxe” as the Indians would say. Turkish Railways’ great achievements date back to the 1870’s when Sultan Abdul Hamid ordered that a line be built to Mecca to transport Muslim Pilgrims in safety to Islam’s holiest Shrine. The line got as far as Medina, but this was only 350Km short of Mecca. The railways continued to be in use until the motor coach and the Turkish Airlines Dakota slowly ... read more

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Karatu used to be the staging post for backpackers to explore the Ngorongoro crater. This was because the road to the crater was so bad that it could take a day to get to Karatu from Arusha. But the Japanese decided to spend some aid money and had the road surfaced. This then opened up the campsites and the crater as a day trip from Arusha. The rich tourists always stayed at the lodges, but the poor back packers now had the opportunity to camp on the crater rim. Realising that they were onto a good thing, the Tanzanian government increased the fees to enter the Ngronogoro conservation area, the crater itself, and then, the camping fees. “The fees went through the roof and the standard of the lodges went down.” said one tour operator. ... read more

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In March 2010, I went up to Gokyo. Then, seizing a chance I hopped over the Renjo La into the Thame valley. What a trip, an amazing trip over mountains with Russians, Swiss, Turks and others. Here are my trip notes with some snapshots I really don't know how to write about this coherently, or without boring you to tears, so I will try and keep this short. About a week ago I left Namche Bazaar and climbed up over Mong La. On the way up I met "Chris" a German professor of taxation. A youngish man who deserpately wanted to be in the Himalayas. Unfortunately, his body was not adapting well to the altitude, he had no sense of humour, and he didn't really like brown foriegners. Seeing as I am a high altitude,joke ... read more

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