We spent our first night in the Northern Territory at the Threeways Roadhouse, at the junction of the Stuart and Barkly Highways, 27 kilometres north of Tennant Creek. We were in a motel unit, with shadecloth for a fly screen, a rattly, loud air conditioner and inoperable reading lights as someone had thoughtfully removed the globes. Moving on to our first real stop, we headed south to Alice Springs, with a stop for a quick look at the Overland Telegraph Station at Barrow Creek and a glance at the Devil’s Marbles. There is a huge amount of popular history in the Northern Territory – what with The Ghan, the Overland Telegraph, John Flynn and of course all the early explorers and well-intentioned missionaries. As we approached Alice we also noticed that the so-called red centre is
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