One very good thing about Vang Vieng is that it is very easy to book up to do almost any activity you want. I needed to get to Vientienne so decided to take a fun route - and go by Kayak. Actually while 'Kayaking to Vientienne' is how the trip is sold, it really is nothing of the sort. What you actually do is drvie to Vientienne, and kayak for a bit on the way. But I knew this in advance, so I wasnt dissapointed! After an hour or so on the road we stopped and took to the kayaks. I [View Full Entry]

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The Bus Of Terror Express bus, I was told, was the fastest way to publically get to Vang Vieng. And this turned out to be true. How was this achieved, I wondered? Perhaps fewer unecessary stops for snack breaks, picking up chickens and so on. This was not the case. It was the fastest way because the particular amphetamine laden driver they chose for this trip had no regard for safety whatsoever. Speed was the name of the game, and I doubt breaking even crossed the mind that lay behind his glazed, absent eyes. We narrowly avoided cows, chickens, pigs, small [View Full Entry]

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Another river journey, but this time in my own privately chartered vessel. Expensive relative to getting a shared boat (which wasnt possible today) but still an absolute bargain! I stopped for lunch at Muang Ngoi, I tiny village with no roads. It kindof a small pile of guesthouses and a school and small temple. The view is great, over a forested valley which could easily be used to film the next Jurassic Park. However I don't think I could stay here for long - the setting may me idyllic but the village really isnt. So its back on the boat, and [View Full Entry]

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Trekking seemed like an appealing idea, but I guess I'm becoming reclusive so I didnt go. I just really didnt like the look of the other people going. Its an opportunity that I may live to regret, but I doubt it. I hate being guided on treks. For me walking is about independance, and unless they have a lot of interesting things to say the guides just annoy me. In a strange way I just like moving around up here. I dont feel the need to stop in a place to 'do' things, as the journeys are so beautiful that they [View Full Entry]

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More than any bus so far this one isnt designed for 6'3.5'' of Alexander Brown. I arrived 1 hour early, and still most of the seats were taken and the isles were filled with potatoes. I think if road safety laws were introduced in Laos there would be a severe hike in bus prices. Along the way we almost left one person behind. Bizarrely her travelling companion did not think to mention this until about 10 minutes had passed, after which the bus had to make a very precarious reversing manouveur through the winding mountain roads. By the time we arrived [View Full Entry]

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Smelly sandals I shower every day, sometimes twice a day. And ive been washing myself for a good few years, I think I know how to do it. I change my clothes every day. But for some reason I stink, and the reason is this - my sandals. What is it about a pair of teva sandals that can smell so bad? I scrub them clean every few days, but still the smell is enough to put me off my lunch? WHY? The mud is always thicker on the other side... I jumped on a boat across the river to the [View Full Entry]

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For the first time in a while I allowed myself to awaken naturally, before going out for some Foe (noodle soup). Ive decided i will miss it immensely, so I may have to start making it at home. Watch this space. I set of for a wander in the direction of some caves. I didnt particularly want to see the caves, I just fancied a wander. As I was passing I decided to look in. This turned out to be an unwise decision, as a collapsing bamboo ladder almost left me plummeting to my death. Ok, thats an exaggeration. One rung [View Full Entry]

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My Lonely planet is well and truly packed away, where it will remain until it gets placed on my bookshelf at home. In my bid for freedom I find myself on a boat with 9 other backpackers, 4 of which at any one time during the 7 hour journey can be found reading the f*****g lonely planet. But Im happy. Im on a boat going up river, and its stunning. At times the water was churned up white by the rocks and trees beneath the surface, and the ride in our rickety and uncomfortable boat was far from either being smooth [View Full Entry]

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Today I did another cookery course. This time it was a full day, and it was really very good. The one in Vientienne had been very short and very sketchy, and this one did not repeat at all. It had a good market tour and a full days cooking and eating. I got a good cross section of both Luang Prabang and Lao Cuisine. But thats not my real news. My real news is that im divorcing the lonely planet. Im pissed off with all the travellers I see with their noses in it, only gong to places it recommends, and [View Full Entry]

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In the morning halflight the scenery looked stunning. If its feasable I think it would be great to do the whole journey back by bike... if only it wasnt the wet season. How about by kayak? Well apparantly it takes a week and costs a bomb... if only I could just rent a boat! Probably best that I dont. I spent the morning wandering around town, before the second most important event of the day - lunch! I had a local Luang Prabang specialty - river weed fried with sesame seeds and garlic - a bit like Japanese Nori (but oilier). [View Full Entry]

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