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peter cullen
Travels with a Dakar.petcul
The ups and downs of travelling by motorbike for the second time to West Africa by a happily retired motorbike/travel addict.
Travel Blog Posts
December 2nd 2008
Travels with a Dakar - The Long Way Home - Meanderings I take my final farewell of Geoff and Mark, and Kay and Amadou and ride out of Sevare to the sound of church bells calling the faithfull to Sunday mass. Market 15 miles outside the village there are two, but mostly four, wheeled carts drawn by donkeys and horses. They full of brightly clad groups of people, families, friends chatting and laughing. "Did you hear about Mrs. Bagayoko? No? Well I hear that she........" "Never, who would have thought it and she so devout" "It just goes to show still waters run deep" "The price of millet has just gone through the roof" "Don't I just know. I don't know how we will survive this year". "Who does that Mrs. Samake think she's fooling wearing ... read more
November 26th 2008
Thursday 13th November I am now a regular and pay an early visit to the cybernet cafe to find out what has happened to my fellow travellers. Geoff is in Mopti and might call today to Sevare. Mark is making progress and should be in Sevare tomorrow and Migo is still stuck in Ziguinchor. As time is starting to run out for me I decide to head into Dogon country, one of the main reasons for coming this far. I pack the bike and am about to say goodbye to Kay and Amadou when Geoff arrives. He's had Mopti. Too much hassle, even by the hotel staff. He got "fined" for going the wrong way up a one way street. The lad's so unlucky. I did it at least twice that I know of in Mopti. ... read more
November 26th 2008
Tuesday 11th November I leave Djenne in the early morning and recross the river Bani on the ferry. I travel through rice fields across the causeway to join the main road to Gao to arrive in Mopti late morning. Mopti is also surrounded by rice fields. In between, yes, you've guessed it. Millet and cattle! The good surface continues but, as it's only 120 miles, I don't have time to get bored. There is also a lot of activity on and at the side of the road. Herds of cattle are being driven to water. There is an endless stream of four wheeled horse drawn carts filled with people. I don't know whether people here are normally reserved. Very few take the initiative but when I do a broad smile and enthusiastic wave is my reward. ... read more
November 23rd 2008
Monday 10 November In the cool of the morning you dig four holes in the earth, put in your poles, tie up an awning, put up your table and your are ready for business. Even at 0700 the Monday market in front of the Djenne mosque is alive with trucks, traders, tourists and very worried sheep. Armed with the camera I shoot anything that moves. I'll never have the time to process a fraction of these. J-M is restless. He has a bad feeling about the place and I sympathise. There is the Djenne of the local population who come to one of the largest markets in Africa to buy, to sell, to exchange news. Dried fish is the biggest single item for sale here. It is bought by families and by traders who load it ... read more
November 21st 2008
Saturday 08th November After a coffee and an indifferent bun at the overpriced patisserie we leave Kayes. The dust is just as bad in the morning as it is in the evening. We cross the Senegal river which is alive with activity. People washing, small piroques getting ready for the day, it seems like all human life is there. If it's not on the river it's on the bridge which starts with a sand trap. The road is good. Too good in the sense that our day is going to be a long one, 400 miles, and there is little to keep me from drifting off into a reverie and losing concentration. Well, that's not quite true to begin with. Although we are back to scrub savannah there are still the baobab trees which symbolise ... read more
November 13th 2008
Friday 07 November We split up to do various bits and pieces before our starting on our road to Mali. We agree to meet up at the roundabout in the middle of town. I get to a service station to refuel when a 1200 GSA pulls in. Jean-Marie comes from near Avignon, speaks great English as well as quite a few other languages. He is touring around. He wants to go to Mali but was told it would be very hot. We talk. Why not tag along with us? OK. We are on our way. The road to Mali is probably the best we have been on since Northern Mauritania. The countryside is heavily wooded to begin with and becomes drier and drier the further east we go. There is a lot of timber and charcoal ... read more
Travels with a Dakar
Published: December 13th 2008Africa » Senegal » Tambacounda Region » Tambacounda
November 12th 2008
I added 01 October to 02 November later. Travels with a Dakar After the worst summer weather in living memory and my bike riding curtailed by a broken ankle added to which my plan to ride to central Asia came to nothing I was determined to do at least one major trip in the autumn of 2008. A return journey to West Africa seemed easiest. I'd been there in 2006 and loved it. Why not go again and explore the familiar again and find new parts. So West Africa it was to be. Six days before my departure I rode around the Border country between England and Scotland and wondered why was I leaving this quiet corner of heaven. The sun shone out of an unfamiliar blue sky and sparkled on wild hills and green river ... read more
November 11th 2008
Monday 3rd November I spend a leisurely day floating around town and relaxing. Sitting on the verandah overlooking the Casamance river with a gently cooling breeze. It is just great. Did I say somewhere I love being on the bike? Speaking of which the bike gets a big treat by way of a power wash and general check and tightening of bolts, it needed it. And some other maintaince. Despite the Trans Gambian Highway the Heath Robinson repair on the headlight is holding up. Another decision today. Mark will head west tomorrow to Cap Skiring and the ocean and more particularly a TV with the U.S. elections. Geoff and I head for Tambacounda and Mali. I have just realised how quickly time is passing and want to spend as much time in Mali as possible. Tuesday ... read more
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