Two bike helmets were stolen from the shack Sopaht lived in, two were given away to those who recued my bike from certain death in the Cardamom mountains during my last trip here, and two sit uselessly in Stung Treng because Sophat forgot to bring them. This means that tomorrow I must purchase the seventh helmet within the two year period I've been visitng Cambodia and this is a typical example of the slow trickle of money down the drain. The fact that my Cambodia SIM card had been deactivated for lack of use and a new one purchased for $20, followed by a pre-payment for calling credit, is a second example. Actually, the list goes on. If it's not one thing , it's another and however tightly I squeeze the dollars into my fist, they ... read more

Sooo, took the bike for a spin to a Buddhist temple 35 km from PP, situated on the top of a hill with pleasant views. The last 5 or so km were along "hysterectomy" road. At least I'll not ever have to bother with that operation in the future! Having survived the dirt road with pot holes and puddles of rain, we explored the temple and descended many stone steps to a little shrine where an old man with an old book sits waiting for devout believers to visit (famous he is, or rather the tattered pieces of paper bound by twine). Apparently the future may be foretold from the wisdom to be found within this loose leaved oracle, (and unrelated to the amount of money laid at the feet of this sage). After a brief ... read more

Arrived in PP almost two hours ago, was met at the airport by two of the Hotel staff, while Sophat waited for me at Dara's. He was too scared to ride with the others to the airport and wanted to delay unleashing the wrath of the .....me! Spoke with Sophat to make tentative plans for the following day, learned that he was staying with his cousin and will update you on the current state of things when I get a consistent story. Meanwhile, motorbike shopping it is. "Ja,ja,ja" I will pay for it from my funds but if I can't slip the debit card past them, I may have to take out a loan from you via VISA, so be prepared? Its now past midnight and although I slept on the plane, my eyes are closing. ... read more

Off to look at motorbikes. Have just had noodle soup and green tea and am learning about the soap opera in Banlung from Sophat. It would be amusing if it wasnt real! Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile ... read more

Woke up at 6am after five hours of sleep and thought about making a start to my day while the sky was grey and the temperature a tad more temperate. I squandered my time and now the sun is out ...Ugh! And I have two mozzie bites already. Sophat is meant to meet me here at 10am and I think I'll just flop on the bed to rest a while longer. Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile ... read more

The BB is finally up and running and so I have replied to emails from Matthew and my TWO friends! Arrived in PP early yesterday morning. SURPRISE! No motorbike. In agreement to the need for a newer bike needing fewer repairs, we went shopping as anticipated. Sophat had already scoped out a honda 250 Baja with new off road tires and double headlamps, and so we contacted his friend, who just happens to be friends with the owner's son etc etc, test drove then bought it. Correction ...WE didn't buy it ....I did! As everything "Cambodian" is to be paid from my bank account, Matthew will have to be repaid from my meagre earnings in my WAMU account. It's off to the Lawyers today and then a likely side trip to Kratie (towards Stung Treng, along ... read more

Seoul was bloody cold. I had nothing in my pack to remedy this and so my new found companion and I paced the early morning streets, walking ourselves into a state of hypothermia. Ignoring the plentiful Starbucks at his request, we eventually revived ourselves in the diminutive 'Leonida's Chocolate Shop' which also happened to sell coffee. It was good coffee, taking twenty five minutes in the making as our pleasant Hostess moved with snail-like grace through her ritual preparation. And still we waited. At last we were presented with two cups of perfectly prepared latte, served with an intricate design of cocoa powder nestled on the foam, and accompanied by handmade chocolates. Well worth the wait, and the price. My companion insisted on paying our bill because strangely enough, they wouldn't accept the US dollar (this ... read more

My room in 'The Royal' is small and neat.  On the 18th floor of a Government Approved Hotel, it is next to the elevator and easily found in a state of inebriation.  Inside is a teeny tiny bathroom and when sitting on the loo it's difficult to shut the door, so I sit staring at my reflection in the full length mirror across the narrow hallway. This is not an unusual situation but what is amazing to me is the high tech toilet bowl that I made a note of last night but tested out fully this morning..oh alright, several times already!  For those who like to park for a while to read the paper or peruse a magazine, the seat can be heated.  When ready the bidet can be used, providing one complies with the ... read more

Have already written a few pages of observations..mostly sarcastic of course, but have been having fun trying out this fancy toilet in my room (will send a copy of my blog when I can type it fully in PP).  Managed a wander around the small streets of central Seoul last night with a British "actor" and we stumbled into a Kareoke bar much like the ones in Cambodia..only high class.  All individual rooms for small private parties where they ply you with a better quality of alcohol so you can sing sad love songs until you cry on someones shoulder!  Had a very strong cocktail in a swish bar full of Korean men only.  Misogynistic (sp?) bunch here, who dont make eye contact very often and never smile.   Am using free internet in hotel lobby ... read more

A lot can happen during a fourteen hour flight but rarely does, other than stepping off the plane into a world quite different from the one left behind.  It's 'Lights, camera, action' and in this scene you can choose to be an observer, a narrator, an extra or take the chance to play a more central role.  The decision is up to each individual traveler to make and the motivation behind the initial ticket purchase may be influential in the choice.   The Phillipina to my right writhed in her seat and rarely stopped talking as her bare feet found their way onto my lap, but as I was soon to learn, her name was Dori and her behaviour was in part due to the residual effects of the incomplete removal of a brain tumour.  Living now in San ... read more