Banlubg is changiing as expected. This land of red earth is still without the paved road promised, but now it is the Chines who have pledged to make travel across this province possible. Their leased land rubber plantations are growing up and reliable methods of transportation will be a necessity. Right now I'm in heaven. Its 6am (that's not part of the fantasy) and I'm lounging on the old wood veranda of the French lodge, Terres Rouges, overlooking a beautiful lake (filled with monster size leeches) being fished by a man who's dugout boat moves languidly across in this hazy light. For those familiar with this ultimate retreat from the Chaos that is Cambodia (Carlos sr, carlos Jr, Matthew and Sebastien), it now has a swimming pool would you believe. The celestial life is here on ... read more

In the last few years, the yellow and green signs of the 'Human Rights' party have become more numerous, especially in rural Cambodia. When asked to explain what this term means to them, it's apparent that such an unfamiliar concept continues to defy comprehension. In America, there's more agreement as to the general meaning of the term, but opinions differ when asked to name specific rights. There are conditions necessary to sustain human life, such as air, water, food and shelter but beyond that there must be some individual rights that benefit communal living as a whole and these will differ according to, for example, a society's collective values and goals. Cambodia lags far behind it's neighbours in more commonly accepted current and potential quality of life indicators. There are few laws that can be enforced ... read more

I Know I should be asleep, but I aint, because I'm awake, because the Buddhist nun won't let me or anyone else sleep, because she obviously can't sleep and feels the need to perform her devotional chants into a microphone at the nearby pagoda. Not nice to say, but I do wish she would shut up! She's quiet now. Hopefully Buddha delivered her to Nirvana, or some other far away place, but now the late night kareoke begins with a vengeance, which would not be so bad if drunk people could sing. They think they can, but they're wrong! 5.25am and the three young girls are getting up to cook noodle soup to sell as they do every morning. Schooling is available here for only four hours a day, and children attend either the morning or ... read more

My chair seat was wiped free of dust, a new pair of chopsticks were unwrapped and with deference, placed into my hands, the plates of "drinking canapes" were set close by and the first of many Johnny Walker shots were poured. It was all of 9am! Methinks that Sophat had kept quiet on a few important details, such as my inept caretaking skills, or even my studied avoidance of aquiring any. Had Sophan been aware of these things, he may not have timed his trip from Siem Pang to coincide with my presence in Stung Treng, nor raised the subject of wanting to find a suitable wife. His third. Sophan is Sophat's biological Father and neither of them have been particularly sucessful in the marriage gamble.. They've both bet and lost twice now, and yet the ... read more

The well rehersed departure comedy routine over, we set off for Banlung on the newly washed bike (?)! Ratanakiri roads are far from "sa'at" but the countryside is beautiful, though it's best not to admire it at the risk of ignoring pot holes in the road (of which there are many). Banlung is the only town and it's fairly central. By "big bike" it's two hours east of Stung Treng along a rough unsurfaced road, three hours west from the Vietnam border over mud and ruts and four hours either north from Koh Neak, or south east from Siem Pang, both across country. It's an adventure alright, but don't place too much stake in the wildlife posters. The last Tiger we saw was two days ago in Stung Treng, wearing a costume I had packed from ... read more

Still feeling unwell but have been swallowing anything and everything from my stash of meds, and unknowns obtained by others from the family pharmacy here in town. My admiring, married policeman (Sopeap) was turning up for coffee many times today (his voice carries and he's always joking around) and was admittedly disappointed that I was confined to my room. He had some type of arrangement because when I eventually surfaced at about 3pm, he must have been informed because no sooner had I finished my rice and tea outside in the cafe, someone's cell rang and I was being invited to join a private karaoke party in town. "No" wasn't an answer and a car was to be sent for me. I gave in but asked Sophat to take me by bike, which he did, and ... read more

The light faded quickly and the dark grey clouds released the rain they had promised. It was a very tropical day of hot bright sun, torrential showers and a thunderstorm finale spectacular enough to keep everyone up and awake for hours. I was back in Stung Treng, in the newly finished house so desperately in need of the proposed awning, for shelter against the rain that floods into the living room from the veranda, and to keep the house as cool as possible during the day. It was a welcoming place when we arrived last night, wet from the last two hours of traveling in rain from Phnom Penh. Still under construction during my last two visits, I had been comfortable in an air conditioned guest house, if somewhat isolated from family life. It became difficult ... read more

It's not exactly intestinal 'pain', but there's some discomfort that's been growing today and in order to entice me to eat, my hosts bought food they thought I would like from the market. I ate because to avoid losing weight I knew I must, and have likely become host to one of the pathogenic enterbacters now disrupting the precarious balance of my own intestinal 'flora'! In all liklihood, the transfer occured not through zoonosis, but rather as a result of human contact. How's that for incorporating those Biological terms researched earlier today! My tastebuds have been traumatized with a dizzying array of things we would throw to the swine Here I check off on the fingers of one hand such delicacies as: 1. Small water snails (have you seen. the water here?). 2. Fried fish heads ... read more

Now THAT was an interesting evening out! Sophat came back to the house, having actually been on the winning volleyball team for once and flush with his cash prize. My suggestion to go out to drink a beer or two was eagerly taken up. Then he found out we were invited to a wedding party. I didn't want to deal with being the star foreigner tonight and suggested he go alone, and that I was happy to get an early night after several sleepless nights now. Undressed and lying on my mattress, I was called to come down to the ground floor to meet the man who was going to take me out and keep me company while I drank a beer..or two! Bugger Sophat! He had arranged an escort for me as he felt ... read more

Of course I wonder how well I'll survive the trip to Stung Treng. It certainly helps to have a lot more padding than I do and I would prefer not to lose the skin off my tailbone again. All's well with the Lawyers here in Phnom Penh. The shareholders are now in place for the birth of the "Accardo Corporation" (creative little name ain't it?). As anticipated, Lawyer Rob was ecstatic over the gift of the Battambang wine. He may even sue for attempted harm. Once in Stung Treng, I'm hoping to avoid being sociable at all for the first couple of days as I seek to catch up on sleep, rest, and writing. The floor will be my bed in Stung Treng and Banlung, with mosquito netting as my canopy. Off to pack a few ... read more