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I'd cycled through the Lofoten islands before, some years back. I KnEw I would encounter 480 hours of continuous daylight in the 20 days I planned to cycle and camp there. Still, I was baffled to watch, as it neared midnight, the sun refuse to set. It would head for the horizon only to boomerang its way back up, as if changing its mind. Though I could only watch this play out on the rare cloudless day... ...the clouds and the rain. The rain and my not!waterproof tent. These were my constant companions, my first three days in Lofoten. A recipe [View Full Entry]

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Walking the annapurna trail during the monsoon season, we had the mountains and tea houses all to ourselves. The signs outside closed cafes teased us with empty promises of apple pies and cakes. Even the rebels had left their posts, and our worries of meeting up with gun-toting maoists politely asking for a donation - sometimes negotiable and always issued with a receipt - were needless. Instead we met up with leeches dropping down on us from the slippery trees, shared our beds with famished fleas, came across stampeding yaks, long lines of loaded donkeys, the unforgettable himalayas, and [View Full Entry]

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More than 2 years in China, and I still don't know what to make of it. It's learning Mandarin and its unconquerable four tones, following the suggestions in my book to raise my eyebrows to the second tone, stamp my foot to the fourth, and dip my chin down then up with the third, attracting concerned looks at the Lazy Book Cafe in Dali as I hold a cup of coffee in one hand and book in the other, my head bobbing, foot stamping, eyebrows rising and falling. It's meeting and hanging out with other travelers who got stuck in Dali. [View Full Entry]

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