Many people think of China as a land where the dominant characteristics of society are homogeneity and obedience. This is true, to a point. For example, when I asked eight-year old Chinese students to write laws for an imaginary country, two of the most important laws were "protect national secrets" and "carry an identity card." But China, especially southwest China, is also home to an impressively diverse group of ethnic and cultural minorities. The only problem, of course, is reaching these places, and transportation in China can be a headache. The mo [View Full Entry]

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As a foreigner in China, I am constantly aware of being different. Children ask me why I'm "so white." My Chinese friends ask me, "what's wrong with your hair?" (nothing, it's just curly). I can't fit into women's shoes because my feet are too big, and six of my foreign friends overloaded an elevator marked "Capacity: 13 persons." Many Chinese people are curious about foreigners because we stand out in a society whose people generally have the same racial features. The majority of Chinese people are respectful of the physical and cultural differences between us, and almost always welcoming and [View Full Entry]

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This week I started to worry that I hadn't blogged recently, and I didn't really have any material I felt like writing about. But, I told myself not to be too concerned, because new things always pop up here. I was sure something would come along soon, and I was right. Be careful what you wish for... I have a history of losing my wallet. It happens a couple times a year, and disaster usually ensues. Banks, insurance companies, Visa, the Massachusetts RMV, they must know my name by now from all the cards I've replaced. So it was only reasonable [View Full Entry]

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Everyone has heard of China's legendary focus on education as a measure of success. Educational stereotypes in China abound. In my own experience, the most common ones regard Jews, Americans, and left-handed people. "Ah, you use your left hand. You must be very smart!" "You are JEWISH? Oh, the Jews are so smart. You must be very, very smart. I like Jews!" "Oh you are American? Americans are so smart. America is very developed, the economy is so good." When they find out I'm a left-handed American Jew, most people don't really know what to say. I try to explain that [View Full Entry]

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Living in China always presents opportunities to explore and new discoveries that surprise me. Why, just the other day I discovered that chicken feet at Walmart cost more than twice as much as chicken breasts, which are the least valued part of the chicken and sell for less than a dollar per package. And whether it's as mundane as hanging out with the bike repairman at the Rotary of Death or as exciting as hiking past the last checkpoint before Tibet, there is always something to do here. I was not, however, expecting this invitation: "Merrill, have you been to the [View Full Entry]

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MAP NOTES - Kunming --> Liuku, the Nujiang take-off point ( 250 miles, 11 hours) - Liuku --> Pianma, a Burmese border town (30 miles, 4 hours) - Pianma --> Liuku (30 miles, 4 hours) - Liuku --> Fugong, a small town up the Nujiang (75 miles, 4 hours) - Fugong --> Stone-Moon Guesthouse farther north (17 miles, 1 hour) - Stone-Moon Guesthouse --> Maji, a small market town (16 miles, 1.5 hours) - Maji --> Gongshan, the last sizable town in northwest Yunnan (25 miles, 2 hours) - Gongshan --> first bend in the Nu (Salween) River (18 miles, 1.5 [View Full Entry]

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Travel Destination No. 1: As I sit here munching on puffed corn, candied orange peels, and slices of processed American cheese, I would like to tell you about my first planned trip. I am planning to go to the Nujiang (Salween River) valley with some friends in early October. The Salween River Valley in northwestern Yunnan is a rugged, rural area that runs parallel to two other major Asian rivers - the Mekong and Yangtze. These rivers originate in northwest Yunnan, but are separated from each other by large mountain ranges. Only one road goes up the Nujiang Valley, and there [View Full Entry]

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Good news: I received the results of my health check-up, and I do not suffer from leprosy, drug addiction, polio, malaria, or any other maladies. My “gravity” was also checked, and clocked in at 1.02 (no units), although I am not sure what that means. Perhaps I am not floating off earth anytime soon? It took several hectic days to properly register at the university, since there are three foreign student offices, and each one has its own forms. There is a form for EVERYTHING in China. I’ve met the people in my department (Minority Research Institute), and am attending some [View Full Entry]

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First, thanks to everyone for all your e-mails and comments and support. It's really nice to have a connection to home when I'm so far away. I'm still apartment-hunting, but I think I will be settled in very soon. "The Medical Exam" Today I took my mandatory medical exam. When I arrived at the designated health clinic, the air smelled putrid with a variety of different kinds of feces, as well as the stench from the nearby canal. I was told I would have to wait three hours for the clinic to reopen at 2pm. As the time drew nearer, more [View Full Entry]

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After a few minor airport incidents, I made it to Kunming. The only minor (okay, major) problem I had was that no one in Beijing seemed to be able to look up my plane ticket, and after being sent to six different counters, I was told that I would just have to buy another ticket. It was either that, or miss my plane, so I bought the stupid ticket (those of you who have seen my passport photo will also be amused to know that I was stopped in Newark and asked to provide additional identification, since my passport photo couldn't [View Full Entry]

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