Last time I crossed the equator I got robbed, threatened, tricked, fooled and deceived (all in the town of Muarabungo, Indonesia ), so I felt a bit reluctant to leave the safe homely northern hemisphere for the southern one. The road from the Cameroonian border post heading south was an impressive showpiece in advanced engineering. Through the dense, sticky and humid rainforest, along raging rivers and over jungle strewn mountains - the European funded road snaked. Well maintained. Empty. Along the roadsides the few dwellings sold petrol, alcohol and bush-meat. Snakes and monkeys [View Full Entry]

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Eight full months it has taken us to traverse this huge region (the size of the contiguous U.S. without Texas.). From entering Mauritania on the first of February, to leaving Cameroon on the last of September. A region of strong religious belief, poverty and corruption. But also a region of great happiness, striking colours and wonderful music. West Africa has some of the worst governments in the world, and the only two ways of getting somewhere in the political jungle; is to hack and bribe your way upwards, or stage a coup d'etat. The latter being the method of choice among [View Full Entry]

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Through the glass ceiling the night sky was reflected in the main pool of the closed public swimming pool facility. It must have been after midnight and I stood at the end of the 50 metres long pool, watching the stars in the dark calm water when I suddenly felt a disturbing presence of something. I felt like I was being watched. To chase my fear away, I gave the room a quick glace, expecting that relieving feeling of being silly, that I always get when I realize that I'm only being paranoid. Instead I froze. At the other end of [View Full Entry]

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Known in the backpacker grapevine as “scam-land” and housing the world’s most corrupt government - Nigeria was not a country we looked forward to enter. But the bad reputation is undeserved. Never before had we met such openhearted hospitality throughout a whole country. And every day we were amazed by the country’s dramatic and beautiful nature. With huge rocks rising from the open savannah in the north and mountains draped in fleshy jungle in the south. After some minor difficulties with the border police at Katsina we went by bush taxi down so [View Full Entry]

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The ceiling was black; or was it white? Or did it actually change colour depending on the time of the day? That was all that I could grasp as I lay in bed with Miss Malaria, munching medicines. In the hallway outside my room - high-heeled prostitutes “clicketi-clacketed” back and forth with their new and old customers - and outside our questionable hotel - unenthusiastic independence-day celebrations took place. Slowly my strength returned and I ventured out into the flooded streets of Niamey - the city of flies - the capital of Niger. Always p [View Full Entry]

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Crossing the border from Ghana into Togo felt like getting back to genuine Africa. Away from modern conveniences and into overcrowded bush-taxis, driving like there’s no tomorrow (which more than once got close to true). We had entered the hilly Danyi Plateau and were travelling on twisting roads through jungle-covered hills, to get to the Benedictine monastery outside the small village of Dzogbégan. The monks at the monastery are famous for their huge orchard, attracting people from faraway to come and enjoy their produce. Things like carambola-jam, home-proce [View Full Entry]

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A trek not to be done in one day, of course. With our slow pace of staying a long time in places we like - it took us a well spent fortnight. At first we passed the resort-clad beach at Busua again, then the charming town of Dixcove. A small town with a cramped harbour of brightly painted boats with innumerable amounts of colourful flags and streamers flickering in the wind, giving us a warm yet chaotic welcome. We continued to an eco-lodge/backpackers hangout where we resided for a couple of days. We watched Ghana beat the U.S. in the world [View Full Entry]

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The day of arrival was a great day - as was the day of departure. About the one and a half months spent inbetween, many different things can be told. And so I will tell you now. Leaving the squint-eyed borderpolice and his crony behind, the countryside turned cultivated, dotted with quaint small mudhouses and the sun was all smiling. So were the villagers we met as we trekked from the Black Volta River to the main highway between Lawra and Wa. We didn’t wait for long until a vehicle stopped. An expensive 4-wheel-drive with governmental officials [View Full Entry]

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In addition to Belize, Bhutan, Brunei and Burundi any list of countries you don't know anything about should include Burkina Faso. In the centre of West Africa with close to no natural resources, annual famines and a corrupt pseudo-democracy jerking the rudder of this landlocked sinking country - it doesn't promote itself as paradise. On our initial itinerary, five days were set aside to transit the country, but after eight days in the anti-picturesque capital; Ouagadougou and eight more days in the second-largest city; Bobo-Dioulasso, we had made some small amendments t [View Full Entry]

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Bamako, with its open sewer system constantly clogged, its dirt roads in the city centre and its profusion of beggars - only outnumbered by the innumerable flies that stir up the heavy fumes - is on sanitary par with New Delhi in India. Spent five days roaming the crowded market, paying a visit to the national museum and obtaining another expensive visa. Had our first encounter with the disreputable guides of Mali. You'll find them (actually, they'll find you) in any city/town/village/junction/road or footpath in Mali. Initially they are a pester, but after you've met a few, you kno [View Full Entry]

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