Last time I crossed the equator I got robbed, threatened, tricked, fooled and deceived (all in the town of Muarabungo, Indonesia ), so I felt a bit reluctant to leave the safe homely northern hemisphere for the southern one. The road from the Cameroonian border post heading south was an impressive showpiece in advanced engineering. Through the dense, sticky and humid rainforest, along raging rivers and over jungle strewn mountains - the European funded road snaked. Well maintained. Empty. Along the roadsides the few dwellings sold petrol, alcohol and bush-meat. Snakes and monkeys hang next to the road and are seen almost as often as all the military check points one encounter on the road. As soon as we’d crossed the equator and stopped for dinner in Ndjole we got ripped off. The southern hemisphere, I
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