Onwards! The first part of today's trek saw us criss-crossing the Gandaki river which was, at some points a wide expanse of dry river-bed, and at others, a fully flowing river, rapids and all. Just as we were tentatively picking our way across the stream-form of said river, trying to avoid an early bath, up popped the village idiot, hollering and leaping around as village idiots no doubt do. He'd latched on to an unfortunate German trekker, Johannes, a bear of a man, some kilometres back. As we all walked along the river-bed the local loon sang songs in a [View Full Entry]

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Pokhara - Jomsom - Marpha - Tukeche We boarded the first flight of the day at around 6am. There were no more than 20 passengers - nice to see we still had a stewardess. The 25-minute flight from Pokhara to Jomsom is like no other: the light aircraft hugged the sides of the Himalayan foothills - at times it felt like the wing tips might just brush the tree canopy but then the hillside would fall away as we flew into a gorge. Mountains loomed large on both sides of the aeroplane. As soon as we landed, we took breakfast. [View Full Entry]

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Sitting on the roof of my Guest House watching the sunrise paint the flanks of the mountains yellow, for the first time I don’t see them as awesome and terrifying but as peaceful and beautiful. You can watch the light changing on the mountains for hours. Annapurna South feels so close that you could reach out and touch her. Yet she’s the biggest thing I’ve ever seen, half as big again as Mt Rainier near Seattle. Nepal has it’s own 9 to 5 - 9 pm to 5am is when you sleep; any later and you miss the sun climbing sleepily [View Full Entry]

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Kieron writes… Vivid Larium enhanced dreams prompted a restless night. Gave up at 5am and watched the sunrise. This was preceded by a visit to the Nepalese “hole in t’ floor with bucket o’ water flush” toilet (fear not, I’ll spare the gory details). The dunny being the only lit room in the guest house, a murder of mosquitoes has assembled causing some concern for one’s safety given the posture necessitated by the primitive facilities - one does not want to be bitten THERE! As you may appreciate, this special incentive tends to accelerate ablutions. [View Full Entry]

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[Cav] - Bye for now Kathy... We jumped on the bus to Pokhara yesterday morning. Kathmandu looks at its best in the early hours. It's certainly cooler, the streets are free of the heavy traffic that epitomises the capital and you can enjoy curious sights like an elephant out for his morning jog, or perhaps it was more of a lollop! The army, not to be outdone by old Nelly, was also pounding the pavement too. Several hours after riding in our 'deluxe' bus (the air con we were promised is simply to open a window) past padi fields, over [View Full Entry]

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Okay, let’s get this outta the way - Poon Hill was a big disappointment. Cloudy. ‘Nuf said. Back on the trail after Manthos ate my cooling breakfast to ensure I was presented with a warmer one after arriving a little late from my room (he’s like that), the cloud cleared and afforded a couple of Kodak moments before we plunged into Rhododendron Jungle, although here at the tail end of the bloom it was more acne than small pox spotted, but picturesque nonetheless. Trail ducked into some Washington state-like rainforested valleys with steamy clouds creeping through the canopy [View Full Entry]

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Determined to attain vengeance upon the Deutschlanders for the thrashing at rummy, Mantos and I gave them a 30 minute head start before commencing the devlish clamber that is the Ulleri steps. Ever been on a stepper in the gym? I can tolerate about 5 minutes - this was an unbroken 2 hour climb under sweltering sun - literally thousands of steps. Still, we passed both the Germans and an equally pleasant (and physically inferior) pair of Aussies - there are no better folks to beat as far as national pride is concerned! Thankfully the trail leveled out, insofar as it [View Full Entry]

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Kieron writes… Gemtle start to the trek. 10am taxi to trail head at Naya Pul, then 4 hours’ gentle undulations to Tikhedunga (which sounds like a Brazilian defensive midfielder circa 1986). Initial observations about trekking in the Himalaya: 1. My 5 day route is for whooses, I’m already wishing I had time for more 2. I’m glad I have my Indiana Jones hat, John McEnroe sweat band and snowboarding croakie (strap to keep one’s glasses from sliding down the schnauzer), but I look like a prat wearing all 3 3. The thin air aint a problem, but the sun burns pre [View Full Entry]

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Kieron writes… Okay, time to ‘fess up. Owing to an ill judged assault upon the Forbidden City of Lhasa, whose 3,700ft elevation disagreed with the delicate Furlong disposition, I’ve spent the majority of my time on my tod so far in Nepal, including a wonderful trek in the Himalaya, the particulars of which I shall now relate. (The history of the 1st attempt on Lhasa shall be “backfilled” retrospectively as I don’t have my notes with me, so forgive the broken chronology for a coupla days). At 6.15am I met my fresh faced guide Mantosh, who was to be my [View Full Entry]

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Kieron writes... Help - I have a dicky tummy! I need sympathy!!! (More to follow)... [View Full Entry]

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