Wading the depths of the Amazon basin, where piranha, tarantulas, scorpions, anaconda and caymans are no longer merely words and glossy photographs on a page, but are instead the fabric from which the jungle is woven. Half the fun of the adventure is in the journey there and back. I left Quito via public transportation around midnight (after missing the earlier bus!) and arrived in Lago Agrio 8 hours later, while Karsten had opted for the 20 min flight. Lago Agrios is the last stop on the Northeastern frontier. If you think that the aforementioned critters are scary, let me shed [View Full Entry]

---

---

Who knew I would develop somewhat of a fancy for the indigenous people here in Otavalo. Never in my life did I think I would find so much beauty on the faces of so many people in one small place. Their aesthetic evokes a visceral response in me and I find myself gawking longer than is socially acceptable. The Quichua have a resolute stoicism mirrored on their faces and wielded in their bodies; their staid demeanor far from my Mediterranean upbringing. I’m infatuated with their chiseled facial structure, distinctive noses, the long black straight hair and find their quiet beauty [View Full Entry]

---

---

Ecuador is amazing and there is much to tell. I can’t very well talk about Quito without first introducing the cast of characters. Jesper and Helle are a couple from Denmark and they are traveling 5 weeks with their 10 year old daughter, Josefina. Karsten, traveling solo, is from Cologne and on the road for about the same amount of time. They are part of the crew that I met in this funky hostel in Quito. Jesper and Helle are both in the TV industry both taking on social causes, both very aware and highly educated. They are the antithesis of [View Full Entry]

---

---

Cartagena is definitely the most romantic and sophisticated city I’ve encountered since August 1. Antigua, Villa de Leyva, Salento all offer a peek back into the colonial history and do so with great charms, but none so far have stirred me the way Cartagena has. In fact, the first two drafts of this posting were overly sentimental and flowery…my amateurish attempt at an ode. And that’s just it exactly-I was so inspired to write, to create, to shed my knowing and see with my skin and taste with my eyes. So transformed, so ready to rearrange my life and stay on [View Full Entry]

---

---

Okay...before I create the Cartagena entry I thought I would throw up a few interesting photos I've collected that are just quirky random shots. They make me laugh out loud. May you share my sense of humor....and in no particular order (like my life and everything else in it!) [View Full Entry]

---

---

The first shots you see here are of a small city that we drove through on the way to Salento. I cannot remember the name of it, but we were there on Saturday- market day and I caught a glimpse into the local color. One thing I continually find fascinating is this belief in "brujos" (witches) and the sorts of potions that are for sale in small tiendas and in the mercados as well. I've added my own commentary on the photos--enjoy. And speaking of markets, I'm finally getting over the surprise of seeing fruits, vegetables and herbs for sale long [View Full Entry]

---

---

I have so many photos from the Villa de Leyva region I decided to create two separate entries. We visited an Ostrich Farm and this small fossil musem, ingeniously named "El Fossil" and Estacion Astronomica Muisca. First the Ostrich farm.....Nothing terribly noteworthy to write about, but an interesting couple of hours. No, we didn't dine on the creatures; apparently they only serve ostrich dinners on the weekend and we were there mid-week. They breed two different kinds of ostrich there, Africa and Australian. During the lesson I gleaned, they live 30-50 years, can weigh as much as 350 pounds [View Full Entry]

---

---

If Villa de Leyva doesn't enchant and enrapture you then quite possibly you've been at your desk too long. This little pueblo is irresistible. We helped ourselves to mouthwatering comedia, infatuating cobbled calles and stumbled across deliciously bizarre sights. Staying only 4 nights left me wanting more; rumor has it that the drummer who played with Elivis Presley lives in the area and owns a bar there and showcases tons of local musical talent....but we didn't get to check it out. We were there during a bicycle race and some of the streets were cordoned off and the townspeople culled. I [View Full Entry]

---

---

Welcome to the land of Claro, entonces, listo, chiste and don't forget tranquilo. I could be the poster girl for the board of tourism in Colombia, and by the look of things so far I'd say they need my help. I have no idea where the other tourists are. I'm staying in a quiet hostel in the more 'touristy' part of the historic city, but this city must be off the gringo trail. Usually it is easy to fall into a groove with other travelers in certain cafes, hostels, bars etc. but there is no such district I can find here. [View Full Entry]

---

---

Much to catch up on! I'm back dating some of these entries... I think we left off somewhere around Nicaragua or Costa Rica. I moved fairly quickly through this part of the world, having visited Costa Rica in the past and being eager to move things along some toward S America. On the bus from Costa Rica into Panama I sat next to a guy from Bogota and over the next 18 hours, we struck up a cryptic conversation as he speaks no English. We hung out off and on over the next 10 days in Panama before flying together into [View Full Entry]

---

---