Andrew Eagle

jajabor

Born. Grew up in Sydney. Law and Politics. Travelled. Worked in many places: taught English in Ukraine, Bolivia, China. Now full-time writer in Dhaka. Spent one school year in Norway. Many cameo jobs like at a bar in Eritrea and at a Lebanese petrol pump. Attended university class on potatoes and tomatoes in Iran. Modelled in Bangladesh once. Africa still looking too empty on the map.



Travel Blog Posts


Sunspots

Published: March 25th 2012Asia » Bangladesh » Chittagong » Hatiya
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March 25th 2012

According to astronomers the red ball sun is only medium-sized. Among stars it is unimpressive yet to our planet it brings life. It’s a standard arrangement, in Hatiya, in Bangladeshi villages, the central courtyard area of dirt surrounded by several modest houses of wood and tin or thatch. There are the mud verandas the women have patiently patted into place at the front of each house, where the roofs overhang the building; and the small windows of carpenter’s hands with frames that aren’t entirely square and shutters that don’t absolutely meet. There are trees including coconut palms and bananas in the patch of ground carved out away from the road amongst the rice fields. It’s typical, the household where Nobir and his extended family live. In the evenings when the hurricanes are turned down in each ... read more



Ladies' Night

Published: March 2nd 2012Asia » Bangladesh » Bogra
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February 28th 2012

My friend Situ isn’t patient with cinema. While he is quite keen on some of the more thoughtful Tollywood or Dhallywood films and he’ll easily devote time to more meaningful offerings from the west, he has a low tolerance threshold for films of the more pointedly commercial variety. It’s quite remarkable since in every other way his patience is extraordinary and something I’ve always tried to learn from. As a result of his lack of enthusiasm for production-line style films his wife Lovely is denied any regularity to her cinema-going, a pastime she adores. I suppose it was meddling but several years ago while we were staying at Lovely’s family home in Bogra I proposed a trip to the cinema largely on her behalf. Situ wasn’t keen but ultimately he had no choice in the matter. ... read more



A Concise History of Cinema

Published: February 29th 2012Asia » India » Rajasthan » Bundi
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February 28th 2012

And…rolling! They barely touched in the days of Twinkle Khanna’s debut, the hero and the heroine, as they sang and danced and sensually raised eyes to one another on their way through their love story. Even with machine guns while fighting the bad guys on the roof of a moving train there was time to dance. For the most part the choreography stemmed from the little yellow flowers in the sublime fields of the rolling hills which were otherwise not part of the setting. Heroines wore full saris back then; it was before the cost cutting on cloth. Cut! Scene two: for young western backpackers in Rajasthan a tour could not be complete without a visit to a cinema hall. There should be an introduction with at least one Kajol or Madhuri Dixit figure. Fades out… ... read more



Robert's List

Published: January 26th 2012Asia » Philippines » Luzon » Baguio City
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January 24th 2012

Comfort is not the thing at twenty-two when there remains yet the energy to drive curiosity and the endurance to put plan to action. The road across the mountains of central Luzon, the Philippines, from the misty reflection of Banaue’s hillside rice terraces to the provincial capital of Bontoc wasn’t easy. Hours of relentless vibration negotiating the curves of the hills: it was like one of those alien exercise contraptions that attach a band around the human waist to deliver a continuous electronic tremor supposed to dissolve fat and make one look slim. The bus and its passengers were the band, so it seemed, with all the rattling and shaking the bellybuster designed to flatten the very curves and bends of the rugged, forested hills. It was quite a workout. Bucketed by dust we must’ve looked ... read more



In the 'hood

Published: January 20th 2012Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka » Dhaka
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January 20th 2012

'Tell me why are we, so blind to see, that the ones we hurt, are you and me’ - from the song ‘Gangsta’s Paradise’ by Coolio CNGs, four-wheel drives, pick-up drop-off cars, dogs, pedestrians, the tempos-of-death stopping suddenly, randomly and askew, and the seemingly out of control buses are there to dodge like bullets. Leaping over the median strip like a cheetah, slithering by the edge of the fence that’s proudly sponsored by a local bank like a boa constrictor, there’s the menace of the mega-conglomeration of choking smoking motorised mayhem once more to brave, on the far side. The trials that need to be overcome for a few groceries! The Bronx, Harlem or Dhanmondi: yo! We’re brothers living in the ’hood. The tea stall guy is on the corner. ‘You close up,’ I threaten him, ... read more



The Dance of Lilliput

Published: January 8th 2012Europe » Moldova » Centre » Chisinau
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January 8th 2012

I’m not as worldly as Jonathan Swift’s Mr. Lemuel Gulliver. I’ve never been to Blefuscu, Brobdingnag, Glubbdubrib or Japan. There was an occasion in 2002 however when I sort of made it as far as Lilliput. The journey began in April, in that Soviet apartment in Sviatoshyn on the northern outskirts of the Ukrainian capital Kyiv. It was suitable accommodation for the one-month teaching methodology course in which I’d enrolled. I was destined to share the apartment with another out of town teacher attending the course, and after some time the doorbell rang. With a fluster of red hair by choice rather than design, forty-ish Alex bustled in with her luggage, hastily telling something to the driver who’d brought her there. It was all in Russian, which she subsequently tried on me. She’d been led to ... read more



The Unfortunate Doorman

Published: November 29th 2011Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka
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November 29th 2011

I can’t say I’m much of a hijacker, which in Dhaka means mugger.To the best of my recollection I did it only once, making a pistol with my fingers. I can’t look much like a hijacker either, assuming hijackers have a look, since even after demanding the money I had to announce what I was doing. But once the activity was established, my chosen victim reached into his pocket without hesitation and pushed a wad of change into my pistol cum hand. With chaotic Dhaka for a backdrop sometimes it’s the little instances of sweet madness that give so much sanity. For example: me and Karim. He was really rather innocent when he first came to the city, the doorman with the great misfortune of having been assigned to work on my building. He had all ... read more



As We Are

Published: October 22nd 2011Asia » India » Bihar » Patna
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October 22nd 2011

I’m thinking of Rashid and Zahid and Humar. I’m thinking of the mirror man who makes the glass with which we see ourselves. For the tourist it spells abundance, India. With its millennia chronicled in stone, at forts, castles and in the ruins of ancient citadels; and its spirit dancing in the mystical myriad of mosques, gurdwaras, churches and temples; from its sky-embracing peaks to its biting Thar winds, India mirrors all we are. But of this, you are aware. The traditional tourist towns need to be savoured and honoured. There’s no disclaimer to add. Yet it’s not only tourists who flock to those places. There are also touts, also rogues, also tricksters. And there’s a greater risk: with so very much to see between castle and fort, and in the bustle of the business of ... read more



The Rishka Wisdom

Published: October 1st 2011Asia » Bangladesh » Dhaka
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October 1st 2011

It pulls to the side of the road at the start of a downpour. With a push and a click of the metal sidebars the hood is lowered and fixed into place. A plastic sheet of some impromptu variety is served across passengers’ legs just as a waiter spreads tablecloths in the expectation of diners. The motion re-starts and the journey continues, with the driver, often uncovered himself, giving in to the drenching delivered by the sky. There’s virtue in putting one’s own comfort second. There’s merit in caring for strangers. In the tyres and mud guards, from handlebars to hood and right down to the panel of imagination, the canvas of rickshaw art at the back, in the rickshaw is wisdom. Often called ‘rishka’ by the villagers, every day chapters of this vehicle’s sacred texts ... read more



Dracula's Jumpers

Published: September 17th 2011Europe » Romania » Transilvania » Brasov » Bran
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September 17th 2011

Exposed beams of brown wood held the ceiling and brown wood made the floor. Neither small nor large the room accommodated neither light nor ventilation. Rather it was musty, dull and brooding. Bats could have lived in it. There was almost no furniture, although centuries ago it might have been a place of small medieval gatherings, that modest space inside the castle at Bran, first built by the Saxons of Kronstadt in the 1370s under the privilege of a Hungarian king. The old lady, I can’t tell of her face: it was years ago and she may have been slightly stooped in her posture. But she was shrunken and seemed to have all the ages and upheavals of Romania within her. Despite it being summer, she wore an odious light cardigan in an unfortunate pea-green. Conspicuous ... read more






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