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hesj - Chris is Going South

Chris is Going South Or maybe he´s just going down...

Either way, for your at-work or lonely-at-home or God-I-miss-him viewing pleasure: BLOG!

Here's the Deal. I've eloped with my Baby and we´re going to ride that bike ´as far as we could, abandon her down south.´ By that I mean that we're going to Ushuaia, Argentina to see if I can fulfill my dream of reaching Antarctica before I get too old for it to impress people by having been to every continent. I only budgeted for one of us to fly back. We'll Ro-sham-bo for it, but I'm pretty sure I´ll win because she's a motorcycle and can only do "Scissors". Anyway, we´re going to leave all that between us right? She doesn´t need to know it yet. I haven't figured out her christian name yet, but we'll get to that. And now I can say that ´I've been through the desert on a horse with no name.´

I'm writing this from Silver City, New Mexico and my baby and I have had 12,000 glorious Km together, over 7 since Vancouver with something like 25000 to go. Won't you come along for the ride?

(I might be updating this as I go but I promise not to quote any more America songs, but I can´t say I´ll stay away from the Dylan).

Oh, and pretty much every entry has more omition than substance. In other words, there´s much more to say about any of them and I´m just waiting for the right moment to finish them so if you wan´t to hear more about something, light a fire under my arse by making a request.

Chris
June, 6th 2009
New Mexico



El Salvador

¨I´ve been drinking, breathing, writing, singing. Everyday I´m on the clock. My mind races with all it´s longing, but can´t keep up with what I got.¨
So I hope I don´t sound too ungrateful but I must say:
It never rains but it pours in Central America.
And just when you think it can´t rain any harder, thunder crashes and the water´s roar grows even more ferocious.
And since Marco, my new traveling companion have been held hostage in our hostel by the rain I´ve had a few hours to try to pick up some of the pieces that Blog has fallen to over the last few weeks...
Frankly I got burnt out there for a little while but I think the skin is beginning to shed and yield a fresh new one, ready for what´s to come. What might that be? How´s a trip through Honduras weeks after a military Coup sound? I´m crossing the border tomorrow.

Chris
July 22, 2009 - Perquín, El Salvador.




Hesje´s Index
22.07.09

Kilometers 16106
Days 84
Countries: 4

United States
Kilometers: 7949
Days: 38
States: 6
Campsites: 12
Nights couch surfing/ floor crashing: 8
Nights at Alex´s house in Tucson: 9
Nights slept on a bench: 2
Meals from major fast food chains: 0
Meals at Los Betos in Arizona: about 4
Casinos visited: 5
Standing (Net): + 40$ US

Mexico

Days in country, 30
Kilometraje: 5902km, border to border.
Toll Highways taken: 1 (by accident for 60km)
Cost: 60 pesos (about 5$)
Speed bumps hit (estimated): 593.9
Towns visited: 29
Times gassed up: 19-20
Nights camped/ hotel room / dorm: 3/ 7/18


Whole avocados eaten: 8
Mangos: 4
Percentage of meals comprised of Tacos, Chilequiles or Quesadillas: at least 40.
Tortillas eaten: about 450 - 500
Grams of chorizo/quesillo: Lots!
Mincheladas drank: 5-6 (depending on the definition of a Minchelada)

Guatemala

Kilometraje: 1864km (border to border to border)
Days: 11
Places visited 9

El Salvador
Times dressed up like a lady figure skater: Who's asking?!
Murders which took place whilst in the Country: who's counting?

Kilometraje: 391
Days: 5

Nights camped: 2
Pupusas eaten 13

Honduras
Head on collisions: 1
Hours spent in country after it occurred: 1.5
Times marco dumped his bike: 2
Reunions with surrogate families: 1
Times entered the country: 2
Favorite beer name: Salva Vida (it certainly did)


Nicaragua

Times heard the song "Rumba" by Pitbull: 298.2
Volcanoes climbed: 1 of 50
Reunions: 5 (Micah; Marco; Gilles; Tony/Hubert/Pablo/Allan; Xabrina and co.)
Friends made: lots
Friends lost: 1 (to be found again in Ecuador)
Fellow motorcycle travelers met within 30 Km of border: 14 (I know right!)
Fish caught by Hubert: at least 15
Pounds of Gallo Pinto Eaten: 6 (estimate)


Costa Rica


Panama
oh panama...


Colombia

Sick days: 4-5
Times stopped by police: 7-8
Bribes, "tips", "donations" paid: 0
Collisions with busses: 1
Damage/cost: None/10$
times robbed: 1 (To the tune of 13.5)
Money returned by the police (3.5)



Ecuador


Baby´s Index

Odometer: 54529
Tires: 4 (three rear, one front)
Chains: 1 (broke in New Mexico)
Articles of clothing used as rags: 7
Oil changes: 5
Air filter changes: 4
break pads used: 3 sets
Turn signals burnt out: 3 (they’re cheap aftermarket crap)
1 Chain Guard eaten
1 Rear view broken (and fixed)
Collisions: 4 (2 near Mexico City, both very minor; one head-on in Honduras, also minor. One on Andy's bike)
Times run off the road: 2 (again minor)
Times cleaned carburetor: 2
Times broke down: at least 3 (depending on definition of "brokedown")
Locks lost: 4
Kilometers on the refrigerator luggage rack:
Boat trips: 7 (a river in Guatemala; To/From Isla Ometepe (on El Che); to/from Nicoya Peninsula; to Zao, on Zao - Panama-Colombia)






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Last Login: November 27th 2009

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Blogs & Travel Journals

by hesj, order by Date newest first.

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The plan was to set out at 7 am. Jeff, the owner of the closest thing to a biker bar in Cuzco, had given me on the scoop on the back door entrance to The Citadel. Follow the route to Santa Maria via Oyantantambo and turn left. Follow that road to its end at the hydroelectric plant, and walk from there. Simple. Of course, my seven o'clock start became an 8 o'clock start before I left the bar because I had much to discuss with Ken and Carol, two aussies that have been doing laps around the world on their BMW [View Full Entry]

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1275 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 32 Photo(s) | 1 Video(s)
Published: November 9th 2009 | 48 Views | [diary=448363]

PA220269
PA220270
PA220273

The trucks backfiring, people smashing their way into the hotel and varied explosions made their way into my drowsing head, keeping it on yellow alert most of the night in case the maniacs outside made it into my room. I was in a lucid state of slumber or lost in a foggy semi-conscious mental ambulation, but the point is I was both sleep and wakefulness -deprived all night. I have a few memories of ugly dreams and one of it occurring to me that with all the hubub I baby might not be safe. She was calling out to me through [View Full Entry]

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1464 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 9 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: October 17th 2009 | 29 Views | [diary=445870]

Puqio
Dawn breaks over Puquio
High Altiplano

Hampster for breakfast
Hampster for breakfast
Perfect hangover cure...?
Marco: "So when the bull comes in, you have to find a spot to climb up." I surveyed the walls of the bullring, but found no room - the place was packed. Just then all the guys standing around the chute where the bull enters scattered sending a shock wave through the crowd. Here we go. Bucking and snorting the beast plows in tossing it's fierce horns at all that moves and rounding the ring at a steady gallop. Luckily Marco found a friend just in time so we had some place to hang (literally) when the bull got to close. [View Full Entry]

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871 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 16 Photo(s) | 6 Video(s)
Published: September 30th 2009 | 22 Views | [diary=440331]

This guy knew what he was doing
He played the bulls like a pro all weekend.
After the goreing

The South American Puma
The South American Puma
Don't be fooled by the claws or teeth. Her most dangerous weapon is her expert Reggeaton Leg-Hump.
Her breath stank. Surely she'd been eating her young - or someone elses. And she was close - too close. I didn't sign up for this... They'd found us roaming the streets of Quito, looking for trouble near Plaza de las Americas. I was with Marco and Checho (Jose) another Ecuadorean who lives in and rode a motorcycle down from Texas. Immediately they were attracted to the pride from fifty meters away... maybe they could smell the motorcycle on us. Three regal lionesses found three poor, brave young lions - was it meant to be? I'd heard about this, studied it [View Full Entry]

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1145 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 2 Photo(s) | 1 Video(s)
Published: September 29th 2009 | 82 Views | [diary=440500]

Puma Attack!

By hesj
September 20th 2009
Sweet Home Cayambe  South America » Ecuador » North » Cayambe
Leaving Popayan
Leaving Popayan
This might look like just a boring landscape but understand that i was just excited to be in such a big place once again.
I knew I had a long day ahead of me; over 500 km between Popayan, Colombia and Cayambe, Ecuador. At least 7-8 hours, plus a border crossing. What I underestimated was how spectacular the ride would be, how much I'd want to stop and take pictures or just slow down and take it in. Still, in the end that didn't slow me down half as much as the horrendous road conditions going through the desert between Popayan and Pasto. Pot-holes like empty graves, just waiting to be filled by unsuspecting motorcyclists... It had been cool in the morning when I left [View Full Entry]

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1678 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 23 Photo(s) | 4 Video(s)
Published: September 23rd 2009 | 37 Views | [diary=438489]

Back in the desert again
Big place.
here just a cool 600 meter drop from the road...

Caldas Coutryside.
Caldas Coutryside.
Nothing shabby.
It took me a while to get my act together. I want to blame it on my cold but I know that it was just the same old crap. Andy stood there shaking his head as I got everything just so. "Are you done leaving yet?" - One last sarcastic remark before my departure. If I see his arse on the other end of the continent it will be too soon. I got lost on the way out of town, ended up in Caldas. I pulled off at one point to ask a truck driver. "I'm lost... How do I get [View Full Entry]

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1286 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 7 Photo(s) | 2 Video(s)
Published: September 18th 2009 | 101 Views | [diary=437399]

Caught on Camera!
Failed attempt.
The sun hangs low over the Cauca

¨That´s exactly why we had the war. For freedom of expression, for democracy, for the rights of the people, of the farmers and of the Earth.¨ He spoke passionately but I could tell it was not the first time he´d said the words. I was speaking with Don Miguel, the owner of our hostel who, along with most of the other citizens of Perquín and, indeed, the whole state of Morazán, had repopulated the abandoned mountainsides. The whole region had been a war zone little more than a decade earlier but already you can hardly tell. Looking around town there are [View Full Entry]

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381 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 19 Photo(s) | 1 Video(s)
Published: July 23rd 2009 | 80 Views | [diary=420849]

Marco and Baby: A glamour shot
Don't mind the livestock..
This was almost the last photo Marco ever took.

Asking directions in Escuintla
Asking directions in Escuintla
Lionel here rode a KLR to Chile in ´92. He was happy to show us the way out of town and we had a nice chat by the side of the higway.
We managed to leave Antigua almost on time, which for various reasons seemed a long shot. I´ll say no more than that Antigua can be a rough town on a guy like me, all the more so on a night when Tequila fell from the sky. The most of ride to the border was fast and beautiful, winding between volcanos and ranchland. The only exception was Esquintla. As soon as we hit the town I stopped to ask directions because we were told we wouldn´t have to go through it. Before I could flip up my visor or find someone to [View Full Entry]

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710 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 13 Photo(s) | 3 Video(s)
Published: July 23rd 2009 | 80 Views | [diary=420167]

Lunch by the roadside
Slap tortilla up!
Goodbye Guat!

After a rather uneventful traverse of Guatemala City I found my way to the Interamericana highway and made my way higher and higher into the highland volcano country. The ride was spectacular and punctuated only by a couple stops to warm my hands and snap photos and one stop in a small town where the road had been closed by a indigenous rights demonstration. I pulled to the front of the line of traffic and asked a couple of police officers what was going on. One told me I'd have to wait but just then his partner noticed another motorcycle squeezing [View Full Entry]

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592 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 23rd 2009 | 38 Views | [diary=419555]

Mobalización!
Arrival
Lakeside Dusk

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[View Full Entry]

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0 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 10 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 23rd 2009 | 23 Views | [diary=418533]

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