So that’s it for Mauritania. I'm off to Senegal tomorrow. So the desert ended well. Evoku took me to his parents place in Atar the last night and got me in a cab to Choum the following day to catch a train to Nouadibou. Evoku’s family is very cute --- his wife, it turns out, is only 16 and they’ve been married for six years! Anyway, I find myself having strange paternal instincts, which must be due to a lack of intoxicants --- will cure that soon. So I got on the train with a feisty old Frenchman named Jacques. The [View Full Entry]

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So the trip in the desert has been going reasonably well. Not exactly what I wanted but at least I am seeing beautiful dunes and oasis. Tonight, my third night outside on the dunes and it seems like the best place yet. Last night was shitty as I was next to the town and in the open. My God is it hot during the day. I spend 12 and 5 pm at the Oasis reading (I just finished Margret Atwood’s “Oryx and Crake” --- it’s very good) and drinking water. Actually I have two guides --- I feel like a true [View Full Entry]

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First some reflections on the pick-up ride yesterday. A once in a lifetime experience. I stress ONCE. However, it was very cool despite being somewhat hellish. So yesterday I decided to take a six day camel excursion with a young guy (Evoku) from Chingetti. Once we finally got to Chingetti (blown tire on the truck) a French woman gave me some good info on Senegal. Later her Burkinabe friend gave me info about Burkina Faso so I can stay at his house --- how unbelievably friendly since he has no idea who I am. Staying with Evoku’s family which includes his [View Full Entry]

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Wow, I’m exhausted!! Yesterday did little - Mathias and I tried to get some beer at the end of the night, but the only place (Novotel) seemed far too pricey. Today, after trying to exchange my pounds sterling, I said good bye to Mathias and grabbed a ride to Atar. 1500 UM seemed to be a good price, except for the fact that there were seven of us (including two paratroopers) in the bed of a tiny pick-up truck for seven+ hours. OH GOD IT WAS HOT! Also an Islamist tried to convert me. Islamist: “do you know where all non-Muslims [View Full Entry]

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Still in Nouachott! I was thinking about leaving today but decided to wait until tomorrow to exchange money. Plus I don’t feel like traveling yet. It’s nice here, although not too much to do. Went to the port-au-peche with Kiryomi and Eri yesterday. This idiot asshole rich-boy Mauritanian drove us. He drove like an idiot with s**tty music blaring and almost hit a kid. He showed no inclination to honk or slow down. Took us to some resort beach, not to the port-au-peche and then told us that we couldn’t go to the port-au-peche because the police would stop us and [View Full Entry]

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Well it wasn’t Europeans/North Americans I met, but it was Westerners (sort of) --- Japan. Two girls, Kiryomi and Eri, whom I met them at 4 am in Dakhla. We then took a truck to Nouadibou, Mauritania. The Moroccan - Mauritanian border…WOW! It’s mined and for three KMs of no-mans land there’s really no road at all, just a path (sort of). Anyway, finally we got to the Mauritanian “customs post” where I get a three day visa for ten Euros. Well that meant I had to go to Nouachott right away. Actually this worked out because the two girls were [View Full Entry]

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So I didn’t go to Laayoune after all, as I went straight through on the bus to Dakhla. It took 16+ hours and was uneventful except for the numerous police checkpoints. Also this fruit vendor, Abdullah, who bought me a yop and then asked to exchange phone numbers. I was suspicious, but his near illiteracy made me think he was just extremely nice, which he was. He gave me a bunch of photos of himself (odd?), and we are now brothers. I arrived at Dakhla at 5 am and found a crappy hotel around 7:30 am that let me check in [View Full Entry]

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So I finally got to Tan Tan after almost pissing myself on the bus --- thank God for the police check point (2nd of 3), although the cop seemed pretty disgusted with me when I pissed on the ground next to him. I found a nice hotel (100 DH) and spent today at the beach (I must put on more sunscreen next time!). I continue to be amazed by the honesty of Moroccans (example: I man found and returned my 1 Dihram I dropped on the bus). I've eaten pizza the past two nights, but when will I get the chance [View Full Entry]

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So all my fears about Ibrahim were false, as the man turned out to be unfailingly honest. On Thursday night (17 May) he got an excellent Berber tagine prepared. When I told him I didn’t want someone who would hassle me for money he seemed offended, say it will be like I am his son on our voyage (ya right! I think). On 18 May Ibrahim wakes me at 5:55am and we have coffee at the hotel. Then off through the Atlas Mountains. Traveled by taxi from Ait Baha to Idaougniolig. At Idaou… we had lunch and I thought I’d been [View Full Entry]

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So I believe my suspicions about Muhammad Isa were at least somewhat correct, as the place he wanted to take me last night for the souks apparently has no souks at all. Fortunately I did not have to deal with him again today. I woke up later (9ish), with the exception of the crazy call to prayer at 4 am! Don’t remember any dreams caused by the Malaria meds. Went shopping and bought a hat. I have agreed to go with the old Moroccan guy from the bus named Ibrahim on a two day tour of the Anti-Atlas Mountains. I think [View Full Entry]

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