Making Up the Distance Last night I had stopped at La Faba, about 5km short of my original target, and if I wanted to stay on track, needed to get to Triacastela tonight. This didn´t seem too much of a problem, as the original stage to Triacastela was just over 20km, so 25km wasn´t going to be too hard, even if it was warm. Getting Away The albergue at La Faba provided breakfast, which the hospitalera had laid out sometime in the evening because it was there when I woke just before 6.00am. Beautiful home made bread and jams, as well as some other trimmings one doesn´t normally see in the municipal and private albergue. Got away around 7.30am, and enjoyed walking in the early morning birdsong in the background. The early morning views back down ... read more

Getting Confused Ponferrada is a big city from a walker´s perspective. I´m beginning to detect a pattern in the Camino markings and signage that distinguishes these from the towns and villages. Cities are about minimalist marking - there are few if any confidence inspiring intermediate markings between changes of direction, etc. The trust required is significant, especially with my previous record of getting misplaced such places. And today, it was called on in spades. There is something discordant about knowing one is generally going west and being directed along roads where one is walking into the rising sun. Even my basic navigation skills were up to that. That led to a tense kilometre or so of especial vigilance until the route gradually turned to the northwest. City roadworks are much the same. Elsewhere, there were always ... read more

The quality of plastic bags There is a range of etiquette to observe in the albergue. The commencement of the hours of silence in the dormitory, what can and cannot be used in the kitchen, and so on. One rule most obvious in its breach than in its compliance is that early risers in the albergue are to pack and leave quietly. Many can, but there are always a few make what seems to be an amazing amount of noise as they leave. I don´t find this a problem, as I am normally awake anyhow, and it gives me an excuse to make my own preparations to leave. This is when one learns about the quality of the plastic bags one has collected along the way. Plastic bags are critical to the pilgrim. They seperate wet ... read more

Leaving Villars de Mazarife What had promised early in the morning to be a brilliant day soon clouded over, and there was one of those raincoat on, raincoat off, etc etc days. The only good thing was that it was warm enough so that I didn´t need a fleece, so it wasn´t too bad. The road conditions varied. Initially walked on paved road for about 4km, but then most of the rest of the morning was on a mix of muddy and rough farm track. Its the sort of track with nicely rounded rocks 10-15cm in size that protrude through the road surface and make nice little ankle twisting traps for the unwary. It just requires constant attention, and is quite difficult for that reason alone. That Photograph The entry into Hospital de Orbigo is across ... read more

Dusty Europe It has been a bit difficult to keep up with the news about when commercial airlines will re-commence flying, so much of the walk into Leon was taken up with pondering what options there might be to get to London if there are still difficulties. So I might forego my planned rest day and keep moving on, giving me an extra day should I need to take the train or a ferry to the UK. Leon The old city has its share of beautiful buildings, and have visited several, including the cathedral. Also done some shopping for tomorrow so that I can get an early start. Bought too much, so will need to eat some fruit etc. Meeting with an old friend of Wal shortly. ... read more