I have never seen a border like the Torkham border before. I suppose it is because it is the tribal areas and not strictly Pakistan, but anyway there were hundreds of people wandering back and forth everywhere. Loads of children, dragging sacks this way and that trying to avoid the policemen's sticks, and of course a huge queue of trucks. To top it all off, we were all up to our ankles in liquid mud. Generally very chaotic. It would have been quite easy to have walked right through without doing any passport business on either side. In fact we had
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