brett and shiv

brettandshiv

Our trip thru South America



Travel Blog Posts


Seven Years Into Brett

Published: December 26th 2006Asia » Nepal » Annapurna
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brettandshiv
December 25th 2006

Although my sojourn into the pristine nature of the Himalayan mountains was only 15 days in length, it felt like an eternity, exploring the timeless expanse of my inner nature. And on those occasions when the stillness of my soul reflected the austere beauty of my surroundings, I found myself above time, dwelling on that threshold between the apparent separation of spirit and creation. These were the pinnacles of my adventure; the marriage of philosophy and experience of wisdom, but they would not have been possible, nor are they less important, than those troughs of loneliness, anxiety and despair that I first had to cross. Waxing lyrical aside, the practicalities of embarking on a solo trek around the Annapurna Circuit were previously few, owing to the existence of tea-houses along the length of the trek and ... read more



Krazy Kathmandu

Published: December 26th 2006Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu
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brettandshiv
December 3rd 2006

Like India, Katmandu exists as a shrine to contrast. In my opinion, the most stark, and interesting of these lies in the collision of history with the frantic modernity of the 20th century. Walking through the old city provides strange and fascinating glimpses into the centuries of religious history that lie inconspicuously amongst the artistic sterility of today’s materialism. Getting lost in the maze of alley-ways and cobbled streets, with quiet, forgotten courtyards offering ancient temples and shrines, was a true delight. A God seems to exist for every occasion, and of course so too does his or her place of offering. Little children play on priceless statues, and this seems more fitting than their existence in a stuffy museum. I loved going to Durbur square, a World Heritage Site in the centre of the city, ... read more



Cave number 32

Published: December 26th 2006Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mandi
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brettandshiv
November 26th 2006

For some reason I couldn't quite figure out, I ended up at this little village called Rewalsar, hidden away in the Himalayan foothills. One of the guys at the meditation retreat was a monk from the monastery there and he recommended it, so it seemed the right place after the buzz of Mcleod Ganj. Indeed, Rewalsar is a very chilled little village, surrounding a lake holy to Hindus and Buddhists. Inhabited by an eclectic mix of Hindu devotees, Buddhist monks and nuns, odd-ball villagers and pilgrims from all over the globe, it has a unique and charming character. It was only after talking to an Austrian guy, who'd spent the past month meditating in a cave above the town, that I became aware of the location's spritual appeal. About 500 A.D, an enlightened Buddhist master, called ... read more



Monks, music and mountains

Published: November 23rd 2006Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj
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brettandshiv
November 21st 2006

"Namaste", the monk says with a shy grin on his face, as he passes us on the road, thumbing his prayer beads and reciting mantras to himself. This is the only place I've been, where that word does not come with some level of spiritual pretension, where it is said frequently and with friendly openess. Mcleod Ganj, sitting on a mountain ridge at 1700m, looking over Dharamsala in the valley, and presided over by the snow-capped Himalayas, is a true anomaly. A haven for Buddhists, hedonists, environmentalists, tourists, artists, spiritualists and activists, but definitely not communists (Chinese that is ), this place is a hive of activity and culture. At first, the sight of so many monks and nuns, with their red robes and kojac hairstyles, along with the enterprising Tibetans going about their business and ... read more



Hangin with the Reaper

Published: November 21st 2006Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir
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brettandshiv
November 14th 2006

Owing to the separatist violence that has rocked Kashmir for the past 13 odd years, the state has been effectively isolated from the encroachment of capitalism and the degradation of culture that accompanies mass tourism. It's like travelling to a medieval Muslim society, where the pace of life is so aptly described by the words often used to describe it, Shanti, shanti. Roughly translated this means quietly, peacefully. Since the political situation stabilised 2 years ago, more intrepid travellers are making the journey to savor the richness of this country within a country. Having seen amazing pictures of the place and having met a group of Europeans who were going, I decided on the spur to go with it and join them. Of course, had I known that I would have to make my peace with ... read more



Psychic surgery

Published: November 21st 2006Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj
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brettandshiv
November 10th 2006

Ten days of silence and meditation in the foothills of the Himalayas, surrounded by pine forests, with the silence punctuated only by the cry of an eagle, the chatterings of passing monkeys or the far off shouts of the village children. Fantastic, I thought...some peace and quiet and an opportunity to explore the infinity within. Once again, my preconceptions were proven to be more than a little wrong. Waking up at 4 am every day to do ten hours of deep meditation, with only 2 meals a day (dinner was only a snack at 5pm), was anything but the easy, chilled time I thought the experience would be. But the hardest part by far was dealing with all the limiting and negative thoughts and patterns I had unwittingly stored up over the past 27 years. The ... read more



Oh my golly gosh

Published: November 21st 2006Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi
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brettandshiv
October 26th 2006

"Holy Cow! That was close", I muttered involuntarily as the motorized rickshaw driver swerved out of the oncoming traffic at the last nanosecond, ending one round of what seemed to be an ongoing and perverse game of scaring the sh*t out of his passengers. "Yes sir, all cows are holy here", he shouted, as indeed, we whizzed past a stationary cow, standing calmly in the middle of the the chaos they call traffic in Delhi, an expression of sublime contemplation on his face. Enviously noting his peaceful calmness, I wondered what would happen if some driver happened to hit him, as we continued to veer through traffic with a recklessness that would make a Cape Town taxidriver sweat with nervousness. Later, in Kasmir, whilst enjoying a beef kebab, I found out from my Muslim companion that ... read more



Rumble in the Jungle

Published: June 12th 2006South America » Brazil » Amazonas
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brettandshiv
June 1st 2006

Reluctantly, we left the laziness of beach life and headed for our rumble in the jungle. To be honest, I had considered just buying postcards of exotic animals and reading about them on the net so i could get back to surfing and avoid the battle of eagle-sized mosquitos, but that would have been a traversty considering the spectacle of nature we were to experience. We flew into Iquitos in Peru which lacks land access but only has early morning or late evening flights as a result of the rubbish heap located next to the airport. During day-light hours, this area is swarmed by vultures who feed on the communities waste and threaten to be sucked into the engines of aircraft. The Peruvian Tourist authorities, in their infinite wisdom, have thus reduced flights into the area ... read more



Everybody's gone surfing!!!

Published: June 7th 2006South America » Peru » Piura » Máncora
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brettandshiv
May 19th 2006

Distracted for 2 months by the vastness and beauty of the sights in South America, we've finally arrived at the beach to expose our lily white asses to the sun and start surfing. Mancora is a very laid back little surf-village near Ecuador, blessed with warm water and numerous good surf spots. We treated ourselves to a 9 bedded apartment overlooking the sea for the first few days but the cost of this shag pad and being woken by our gay landlord with his wrinkley lovers in the jacuzzi every morning forced us to review our options. We moved into a bamboo beach bungalow with some wild friends who taught us how to really party, hence the hours we were going to dedicate to surfing reduced significantly. Nevertheless we had some great surf condtions and met ... read more



The Wrong Way Round !

Published: June 7th 2006South America » Peru » Cusco » Machu Picchu
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brettandshiv
May 15th 2006

We decided to go a different route to Macchu Picchu than most, which is a comfortable train journey from Cuzco, filled with loud Americans and picture-happy Japs. Nay, we decided to hire a 450 cc off-road beast and ride the 260km there. Of course, the massif 80´s party (in our awesome party hostel) we attended the night before we were due to leave threw a spanner in the works - as were dressed the part, having bought clothes from a 2nd hand store and looking like extras in a Cindi Lauper video, we had to party like we meant it. What this really meant is we could only leave a day later, owing to our enormous hangovers, which would have killed ordinary travellers. Bedecked in off-road gear and a small workshop of tools, we set off ... read more






Tot: 0.122s; Tpl: 0.005s; cc: 14; qc: 87; dbt: 0.0734s; 1; s:notus w:www (50.28.60.10); sld: 1; ; mem: 1.8mb