A Bandh was called by an umbrella group of trade unions in West Bengal, effective today. I'm not too sure on their demmands (I believe they are related to wage increases to cope with inflation), but the effects are incredible. Bandh literally means "dam", and that what has happened to Kolkata's daily economy. Not everything is stopped- many small tea stands, tourist restaurants, and about half of the street food vendors are still in operation.These may be likened to small holes in a dam, or perhaps the divergent course of water. Ninety percent of the small conveience stores, [View Full Entry]

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It looks like President Musharaf is stepping down next door. I realized recently that I have been updating my blog less frequently than when I first arrived in India. I believe this is partly because I am less shocked by the things I now see on a daily basis, and partly because I attach greater value to the precious rupees that I can spend on internet access. Last Wednesday evening I was having a conversation with some Westerners at my hotel when the much greater value of listening as opposed to talking was suddenly impressed upon me. I then decided to [View Full Entry]

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Many of the Western tourists who I have gotten to know are heading northwards to Siliguri, Darjeling and Nepal. Although they will be greatly missed, their departure has translated into material benefits for myself. I have been given a few books, some spiffy homespun trousers, and a pair of Punjabi "clown pants." Of course, maybe I will be unloading these gifts on others in two weeks when I go to Delhi to introduce ChinaMike to the magic that is India. I've heard that Delhi and Mumbai are generally less friendly than Kolkata. Maybe this is because most Westerners here come to [View Full Entry]

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It is the 62nd Anniversary of India's Independence! Many shops are closed, and there are stages with loudspeakers, flags, and musical performers throughout the city. There are two such stages within a three block radius of my hotel. For the most part everyone seems to be a good mood, but there does seem to be some underlying unease. India's Independence from Britain was achieved through much struggle and suffering, and the painful memories of the communal violence that accompanied the division of British India into Muslim Pakistan and (primarily) Hindu India are very much alive in the older ge [View Full Entry]

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Yesterday I saw a Bollywood movie. It was pretty good for a love story. At one point I was able to figure out that the leading man was trying to get a job from the father of the leading lady, but the older gentleman thought the young man was applying to marry his daughter! Very funny. However, if I saw the leading man on Sudder street, dressed as he was throughout the movie, I would probably try talking to him in Spanish. Here there is "skin whitening cream" for sale at beauty shops. Just goes to show that the societal standards [View Full Entry]

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Yesterday, around 5 PM, I entered a restaurant that I had never been to, dressed in my lungi and a green t-shirt that says FBI- Full Blooded Irish. I was the only customer, and I greeted the only employee (owner?) there with a nice Bangla "kaamon achen ?" He responded with about 15 seconds Bangla, to which I responded with " ha, ha, ji . I noticed at this time that he was blind in one eye. I requested ek eggroll. Another employee (the man's son?) came in after about two minutes, exchanged a few words with the older fella, and [View Full Entry]

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A quick note on what I have been consuming for sustenance in Kolkata. In the mornings that I volunteer with the SMCs, I am provided with chai , bread, small bananas, and "biscuits" (crackers). For lunch, I often have egg fried rice to which I add peanuts. Egg fried rice costs 18 rupees, a small package of peanuts is 5. Often now I have dinner at a restaurant known as Fiesta that sells bhat, dahi (rice and curd) with an egg roll. Four, five, and eight rupees respectively. My favorite Indian food, available at most restaurants, is tarka , a sort [View Full Entry]

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I got a haircut here for 10 rupees. Helps to have less hair on the head when it is 30 degrees and humid out (that's Celsius, for y'all Americans). The fan in my room has been fixed, although the management at my hotel were kind enough to let me sleep in a different room for the two nights it was out. I took the Metro and walked for about 30 minutes to a beautiful Jain temple in North Kolkata yesterday. The area was more wealthy and very laid back. Hardly anyone on the streets, and when water flowed through along the [View Full Entry]

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Very warm and humid here. The fan in my room has broken three times in the last three days. Yesterday I bought a fruit for 2 rupees of which I do not know the name. It was also my first day in Kolkata of complete internet abstinence. Getting better at dressing the wounds. Today the radio in the men's ward was blaring American music, so I got to listen to "Money for Nothing" while bandaging a paralyzed Indian boy. A strange experience. There has been some sort of festival for Shiva the last couple of days. More people than usual with [View Full Entry]

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Yesterday I had an enlightening experience. I was supposed to meet a group of friends at a nice Chinese restaurant by the intersection of Free School and Park street for dinner. The entire day, I had been dressed in the nicest shirt I brought to India and my high quality blue lungi (those who do not know what a lungi is should look it up, it is the traditional attire of the men of West Bengal). As I came up to the door of the restaurant, the doorman stopped me and said "No". I asked why and he pointed to my [View Full Entry]

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