The New Year began with a trip to the 'historic' city of Cartagena, a few hours along the coast from Taganga. The main draw to Cartagena is its famous fortress, built in the 17th century to repel pirates and the invading English, which houses an old colonial city, now referred to as the old city. All the hostels are in a seedy, poor neighbourhood to the south, Getsemani, which seems to be populated solely by crackheads, prostitutes and crooked-looking cops. This, combined with the oppressive heat, sent me back to Taganga, the fishing village where I had spend Christmas and New
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