TimsToePrints

My brain grappled with the apparent oxymoron, “Skiing in India” but as my source elaborated, my eyes adjusted. A picture of paradise was sketched, of vast untouched mountains descending into pristine valleys of conifers and snow leopards. It was the first time I’d heard of Gulmarg, nestled in the flank of Mount Apherwat in Indian Administered Kashmir and the first time I’d learnt of Skiing in India. The only familiar sound was the brutally gentle “Kashmir”; connotations of the finest wool sweater clashed with the memory that Bill Clinton once labelled the area the most dangerous region on earth. Kashmir was once a rich man’s playground, a mountainous haven where the Raj could escape the searing heat of the Indian plains. Srinigar’s Dal Lake houseboats remain, stagnant and stunning against the bleak wintry landscape, martyrs of ... read more

When does the pursuit of a cheap backpacking holiday turn ridiculous? The subtle transition from a smart, cautious, economical traveller to the self proclaimed ‘stingiest backpacker of all time’. Wearing the title with pride on your sleeve and advertising your pittance of a daily budget to any traveller in earshot. What do I know about this ridiculous, self-indulgent behaviour? I unwillingly became one of ‘them’! Becoming a ‘tight-arse’ may well be a compulsory bi-product of any long journey through Asia or parts of the developing world but sometimes you have to know when to stop, when to concede defeat, to realise that that extra rupee you refused to pay for a chai in Chennai will be nothing more than a blip on your radar of conscience when you return home. Sometimes you pay the price for ... read more

I’d made the decision to end my big Asian adventure with a month in Sri Lanka for a number of reasons. First and foremost was to soak up paradise and get some waves after a long absence from the surf life and it was also a chance for Lisa to have some time to acclimatise to home after over a year and a half away from Sweden. It was everything I could have hoped for and more. I had some fantastic surfs, met some lovely people and saw some beautiful things. I completed my first official pilgrimage, climbing the 2243m Adam’s Peak, a sacred site for Buddhists, Muslims and Christians alike. The climb takes around 4 and a half hours from the base camp and is a tough slog despite having steps the whole way. Just ... read more

Rajasthan is for many the highlight of a trip to India, whether this is for a specific perception of what entails exciting travel or a lack of comparable experiences, it wasn’t for me. One can’t argue against the stunning history, bizarre cities, rich and colourful people and must-do activities but with such appeal comes the inescapable use and abuse. It was the place in India where we felt most threatened, uncomfortable, un-special and most like a walking dollar bill. Coming from our rather surreal experience of being the centre of a bizarre love triangle in Amritsar we fell directly into the clutches of Jaipur dizzy and drunk off Indian hospitality and there to catch us was Super Ali. After 14 hours on a train full of snoring, stinky, perverted Indians the last thing you want is ... read more