'Why would you want to go there?' Delivered in a flat, cold tone by a woman who had been scrupulously fair and reasonable in our discussions when we mentioned that we intended to travel through Serbia. She was Slovenian though and that may have been part of the reason. Signs on the motorway from Zagreb only started to indicate that we were on our way to Belgrade after we were well on the way. Croatians just don't mention the place. In Montenegro there is a much greater acceptance and friendliness towards Serbia and, of course, the two seem to have been allies lately. In Bosnia-Hercegovina the situation is mixed. Clearly, the Republic of Srpska within Bosnia-Hercegovina is closely related to Serbia. Just as clearly, the remainder of the country is not keen at all on the
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