We arrived in the highest city in the world early in the morning, while it was still dark. It was unbearably cold. Through my sleepy eyes, I peered at the trusty guidebook for a place to stay. The Koala Den caught my eye, described as warm and cosy. There was no negotiation. But do Koalas have dens? Not the point. The bus ride had been less than comfortable. It was freezing as always and the drivers were toilet nazis. I had wanted to go to the toilet, but it was locked, so they screamed at me to WAIT! But why, I asked. WAIT! they replied. An hour later, I was ready to burst, when we pulled into a road side restaurant, the place where I was supposed to go to the toilet. Why they couldn't have
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