Episode Two: Arrial d´Ajuda Arrial is a far cry from the bohemian backwaters of Caraiva. But, it´s Christmas and the quaint cobbled streets decorated with fairy lights and lined with beautiful boutiques and romantic restaurants carries a more festive feel. In truth, without he usual commercial hype, cold weather and annual embarrassment at the office party - Christmas couldn´t be further from my mind. And, when the realisation eventually arrives I find myself missing what is really important at this time of year...presents! I mean friends and family of course. It isn't until the night b [View Full Entry]

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With the festive season approaching, we need to reserve some accomodation before the Brazilians arrive at the beaches en masse from the cities. You would think that they owned the place. We spend a few days scoping the southern Bahia coastline, in search of a magic number of beaches to share the next three weeks. The trilogy begins... Episode 1: Caraiva Caraiva is a small fishing village settled on a peninsula that separates an anorexic river on one side and an obese ocean on the other. At the point, copper coloured freshwater bleeds into the turquoise Atlantic - where deserted beaches [View Full Entry]

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30.11.08 - 04.12.08 Salvador We leave our friends and the fickle weather in Rio, chasing the sun north to Salvador; The samba beating heart of Brazil´s Bahia region - where a history of slave trade has left obvious African influences...and an undeniable edge. Our arrival coincides with a three-day music festival. Each night, an escalating party crowds the cobbled streets, with bar stalls and sound systems scattered across the Pelhourinho district. We had hoped that a good tan and worn pair of Havianas would allow us to slip beneath the gringo radar. In truth, we stand out like two Rabbi [View Full Entry]

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12-14.11.08 Chasing waterfalls We end our fleeting love affair with Argentina at another of the world´s natural wonders, Igazu Falls. The spectacular scenery features over two-hundred waterfalls pouring forcefully into the earth. We take trails that wind above and below them - and an adrenaline-fuelled power boat that ventures right to the base, soaking us in water and laughter. The largest, El Garganto do Diablo, is saved for last. The energy created by the cascading torrents is awe inspiring. I stand on the edge above a misted abyss interlaced with rainbows watching swifts dart between [View Full Entry]

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Since the small town of Cafayette couldn´t contain us, we set our sights on the capital, Buenos Aries - which is large enough to lose yourself in for days. Dream trilogy I have three wishes as we arrive, although there isn´t a genie in sight...and that´s the rub:) Nonetheless, all my dreams come true within the first day... 1) Taste a chroripan - a delicious sausage sandwich made from spicy chorizo. We will come to practically live on these over the next few days. Boom-bada, I feel like getting fatter! 2) Get a haircut - despite the difficulties explaining the style [View Full Entry]

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27 - 31.10.08 Salta Cross the Bolivia border at Villazon and enter La Quiaca, Argentina. Take a bus to Salta, which instantly feels like a return to civilisation. The city features a distinct European flavour including impressive architecture and a modern infrastructure absent from the previous places we have visited - while the locals no longer all seem to be swimming in the same gene pool! Wake up and smell the roses while wandering around the attractive communal gardens - it´s like a walk in the park:) Take a cable car ride to a mirador overlooking the city. The aerial view [View Full Entry]

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15 - 20.10.08 The Salt Plains via trains and automobiles Travel from Rurrenabaque to La Paz (20hrs) escaping several close collisions and our bus nearly overturning when a wet road gives way beneath us - danger is this road´s middle name! Take another bus to Ururo (6hrs) and then a train to Tupiza (13hrs) - a ghost town with a good spirit. Stay at a hostel with modern ammenities including cable TV and an electric shower - at least one that gives us a low voltage shock whenever we touch the taps. Wear flip-flops while we wash. 21 - 25-10-08 Trip [View Full Entry]

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11 - 13.10.08 Jungle massive While the Pampas offered unexpected enjoyment, our tour of the jungle became more a test of endurance for me. This was largely down to two reasons - the heat and the mosquitos! I´m so hot right now! Once the rain passed, it´s sweltering degrees centigrade - only ice salesmen are appreciative. And, the air is thickly condensed with humidity that leaves us cascading with sweat, even in the shade. Basically, it´s not cool being this hot. The Ritchy and Scratchy Show After only being bitten once before reaching our jungle camp, I´m confident of escaping my [View Full Entry]

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05 - 07.10.08 Rurrenabaque The world´s most dangerous road leads us to Rurrenabaque - a sleepy frontier town that sounds deceptively awake since all the locals drive dying motorcycles by day and kill karaoke songs by night. Despite being in the heart of the Amazon rain forest, we´re surprised when the heavens open as we arrive. Go straight to twisted An opportunity presents itself with extraordinary ease when a group of passing Argentinian hippies flick a peace sign and invite me to take a walk on the wildside - the jungle just got greener! We while away time waiting for the [View Full Entry]

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29.09.08 - 04.10.08 La Paz Making an entrance Only seeing the neon lights of Vegas from deep in the desert compares to the unexpected surprise at first sight of witnessing La Paz reveal itself. The world´s highest city actually lies at the base of a canyon but has spread into a sprawling mass of degradation that covers every square inch of the surrounding walls. It´s poluted, over populated and chaotic - but equally exciting! The Force is strong with this one Our reputation arrives at a bar before us. Have an entirely telepathic conversation from the other side of the room [View Full Entry]

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