At first, crossing the transparent border that separates Vietnam from Cambodia feels like a seamless transition between two countries cut from the same cloth. Our boat meanders a course against currents of Mekong River that have migrated all the way from Tibet, passing similar tropical landscapes thriving in the moist heat and familiar figures crowned in conical straw hats. But, as we travel inland, subtle threads of difference start unraveling. By the time we've reached the capital, Phnom Penh, it's obvious that, while Cambodia shares the same staple ingredients as its Asean neighbour, it
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