LEAVING McLEOD WARNING: Do NOT take the train ride from McLeod to Rishikesh. It's hell! We were told 11.5 hours; it took 24 hours in stinking crowded bus and train. The train station is too far from McLeod, particularly since the bus driver stops too often. The bus ticket was much cheaper, but we were told: "the train is so much more comfortable"! So, we bought an "AC/sleeper ticket"..., or so we thought! The train station is in Pathankot and how to get there was a matter of "math": 90 Rupees for bus versus 1,500 Rupees for a taxi. The bus seems the logic choice, right? WRONG!! We know that because we decided to leave raining McLeod on a freaking public bus, the dirtiest we had gotten here in India, again packed way beyond capacity and ... read more

Before you read on, could I please ask you to send me a message or comment letting me know how you found this blog? If you like it, recommend it. Thanks During the steaming times at the Golden Triangle (Delhi, Agra, Jaipur), we dreamed of the cool hills up north, particularly of a small village called KASOL. I had heard it was home of the best guesthouses and some of the cleanest restaurants in India. No second thought, we put it on the itinerary. At 7:45 am, backpacks on, we walked down the steep of hills of Shimla to catch the ''luxury' tourist bus. After some minutes, we were very lucky that an Australian traveller took the time to come down the road and let us know that our bus had been cancelled, and the substitute ... read more

Day 4, but it feels like so many more! We drove out of Jaipur among the now familiar camels, cows, dogs, and the most diverse, interesting, and curious people all over the random streets. The masive impressive light pink structure of the AMBER FORT could be admired from afar, "hanging" on the side of a rocky mountain. The minute we step out of the car the vendors and unnoficial guides start the persistent plee... but we are getting better at dismissing them quicker now, although still very annoyed. Besides enjoying the beautiful archtecture of the structures, arches and windows, my eyes were constantly being caught by the traditionally dressed locals, the colorful saris, the westernized ones, and the contrats with the few black burka of Muslin women. There was also a group of Brazilians from the ... read more

Me again from India. We were supposed to vist the Agra Fort after the Taj, but again Raju (the nightmare driver) changed our plans ignoring my request to see the fort. In a flash, we were already out of Agra, with him angry that I was firm about not stopping at a marble factory. We stopped at the fortified ghost city of FATEPUR SIKRI next. An "official" guide approached us offering his services for R$600. I bargained it down to R$100 and decided it would be better to stick with him than to be pested by a swarm of unoffical guides. We took an autorickshaw up the hill, to find another amazying Indian site. The large JAMA MASJID mosque is of Persian and Hindu design, has inumerous archways, a huge courtyard and a beautiful white marble ... read more

Namaste from India! Warnings of the moonsons, the deadly heat, and "Delhi Belly" (intestinal distress) were abundant. But, the tickets were bought and the determination to venture endured, and so, after 33 hours of traveling, in India we arrived at 5 in the morning. The driver from the hotel was waiting for us. The drive to the city was not picturestic at all. Several very poor huts, people defecating on the open field, bad/dusty road. I thought all the reading I did, all the warnings and advices from other travelers and Indian friends I had got had prepared me for Delhi, but NOT. I don't think it's possible to be ready to endure the Paharganj area, where traveller end up. The ever enerving pesky touts (men trying to get you to go places they get commission, ... read more