Bolivia is officially the poorest country in South America and you don't have to look very hard to recognise that life here is pretty hard for many people. However, many travellers that I had met had told me that Bolivia had been the great surprise of their trip; they hadn't been expecting much but had loved the place. Forever Miss Contrary I have to say that I had good expectations but have liked it less than I thought I would! I can't quite pinpoint why that is, but the fact that it's the rainy season and many days are grey and overcast doesn't help to lift the mood of general grimness. The people have a very different manner too and seem much more reserved than the immediately warm Argentines or the friendly Brazilians which can make ... read more

The transition from travelling with Fiona to being by myself was made much easier by the fact that I seemed to already know several people in Buenos Aires. There was Jackie P, Alistair (a friend from England) and several other people I had met in different parts of South America so there was never any time to start feeling lonely. Alistair and I went off to Mendoza for a few days and the 13 hour bus ride was definitely the swankiest so far. I finally got to play bus bingo (or "Bingoooo AN-DES-MAR" as the conductor kept announcing emphatically in an attempt to whip up some enthusiasm) but I didn't win and the excitement was short-lived! Dinner was also included and the menu was announced over the tannoy. I was sure that champagne was mentioned but ... read more

Chile became much more interesting as soon as we left Santiago. Our first stop South was Valparaiso, one of the most important ports on the whole Pacific coast and with a rich and interesting history. European and US business interests during the port's heyday in the 19th century had brought hundreds of international settlers to the area. The city sprawls higgledy-piggedly over a series of small hills connected to the port area by century-old funiculars that only carry a handful of people. There are numerous hidden alleys and stairwells that connect all the streets on different levels and it was a fabulous place for rambling around and getting happily lost. It also felt quite Bohemian and apparently attracts a lot of arty types, including the poet Pablo Neruda whose eclectic house we visited. All the houses ... read more

HEALTH WARNING: If you're feeling a bit glum about the onset of winter in England, it might be best if you skip this blog ;) I think the photos probably speak for themselves. These beaches are just stunning. Any of you who have been on holiday with me will know how much clear, turquoise, shallow water just does it for me so I've been in total heaven for the last week or so. We're on the north-east coast of Brazil just south of the equator where the sun always shines apparently (why didn't it in Ecuador, then? If anyone understands that, please fill me in). A lot of the beaches here, like the one at Pipa, are fabulous but we decided to splash out and visit the beautiful island of Fernando de Noronha where the ... read more

Fiona arrived at midnight on Monday and by 8.30 am was bundled onto the bus ready for a 7 hour trip to Quilotoa. No mean feat! Im not sure she knew what had hit her, especially when we transferred to the local bus filled to the brim with indigenous people and their chickens and all the sensory overload that that entails. Sandy roads and hairpin bends made the last 4 hours fairly hair-raising but it was through spectacular scenery which made it more bearable (if the bus is going to hurtle over a sheer drop it may as well be a pretty one). Eventually we arrived safely at our destination which was the Black Sheep Inn, a very smart eco-lodge in beautiful surroundings, to find several people that I knew from Quito. Whilst this did prove ... read more