Page 7 of LobsterCheeks Travel Blog Posts


LobsterCheeks icon
LobsterCheeks
September 8th 2007

Since I first heard about it, I have wanted to cycle down "The World´s Most Dangerous Road". Also known as "The Death Road", it is a 40km downhill mountain road connecting La Paz with the lowlands. Between 200 and 300 people are estimated to die on this road each year. So why is it so dangerous? Basically it is a winding gravel road which has blind bends and crumbling edges, and it only 3 metres wide in some places (which is barely wide enough for one vehicle). One side of the road is the mountain wall, and the other side is a sheer drop of up to 1000m. And there was plenty of traffic on this road, because it was the ONLY road from La Paz to the lowlands! So there were plenty of cars, buses ... read more



The Fire-Resistant City

Published: September 25th 2007South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » La Paz
LobsterCheeks icon
LobsterCheeks
September 7th 2007

Chaotic. Polluted. Ugly. An unplanned, messy urbal sprawl. Yet somehow intriguing.... Welcome to La Paz, capital of Bolivia! So far, most cities I have visited have had at least a vague gridlike system to their streets. There has been some vague notion of planning to the layout. But not with La Paz. With this city, the layout must have been designed by a blind man on crack. Or maybe by someone dipping a spider in ink and letting it run across a page. The very centre does have some sense to it, but venture further away and you enter a crazy network of roads that twist and wind around each other, heading up steep hills and plunging down again in a stomach-turning kind of way. Cars and buses are continually chugging and grinding their way around, ... read more



People of the Lake

Published: September 20th 2007South America » Peru » Puno » Lake Titicaca
LobsterCheeks icon
LobsterCheeks
September 5th 2007

Have you heard of Lake Titicaca? It's name sounds like it came from a Carry-On film. It is also the world´s highest navigatable lake. The world's actual highest lake is somewhere in Russia, and is only unnavigatable because no-one's bothered to put any boats up there. Lake Titicaca straddles both Peru and Bolivia, and there are great arguments about where the actual border lies. Peru claims to own 60% of the lake, but so does Bolivia! We set sail on the Peruvian side to a rather interesting island called Amantani. The men on this island wear one of two types of hat to signify whether they are single or married. But according to our guide, the younger generation "do not respect the hats" anymore, and wear whichever they feel like. A disgrace!! Someone should tell them ... read more



LobsterCheeks icon
LobsterCheeks
September 1st 2007

It was midday. I was in the middle of the Nevada Desert. I had just climbed a ladder onto a truck that had been converted into a magnificent 50-foot golden dragon. Huge speakers were strapped to the outside, pumping out dance music, and a plethora of people in crazy costumes were on the top deck, mixing cocktails and dancing to the beat. A huge flamethrower at the head of the dragon threw out a belch of flame and smoke, and then the truck set off, slowly driving into the heart of the desert Welcome to The Burning Man Festival. A festival unlike any other you will ever visit, and an experience that will stay with you for the rest of your life. Quite possibly the most extreme festival in the world, but also the most exhilarating. ... read more



Supermen and Supercrops

Published: September 19th 2007South America » Peru » Cusco » Inca Trail
LobsterCheeks icon
LobsterCheeks
August 30th 2007

The day was here at last! I was going to be hiking to Machu Picchu on the four-day Inca Trail. Machu Picchu has now been awarded the status as one of the "New Seven Wonders Of The World" by worldwide public vote. I personally voted for Stonehenge, which incidentally got nowhere! Admittedly, Stonehenge is somewhat rubbish, but I thought it would be nice for Britain to have something. Due to erosion of the Inca Trail, only 500 permits are issued each day, and this includes porters and guides (you cannot hike the trail alone now, you have to use the local porters and guides). When I had first enquired in April, permits had sold out as far as mid-August! Our trekking group consisted of 15 people, two guides, two chefs and TWENTY-ONE porters!! At first I ... read more



Conspiracies, Cocktails and Conmen

Published: September 17th 2007South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco
LobsterCheeks icon
LobsterCheeks
August 25th 2007

After failing to find any condor steaks in South Peru, we headed to the East in search of new and tasty meats. At the indecent time of 5am we boarded a flight to the mountain town of Cusco. Once on the plane I thought it was strange that they didn´t give us a lifejacket demonstration. "Probably because we´re not flying over the sea" someone said. "But what if we overshoot and land in Lake Titicaca?" piped up Steve from the seat behind. "It´s irrelevant anyway" said Gus, and went on to explain why. For flights passing over bodies of water, you always get a full lifejacket demonstration. If you look on the safety card there are diagrams of a nice inflatable slide which extends down from each emergency exit. Now, ladies and gentlemen, this is the ... read more



In Search of Paddington Bear

Published: September 16th 2007South America » Peru
LobsterCheeks icon
LobsterCheeks
August 23rd 2007

A few facts and observations on Peru.... 1. If you cast your mind back to your childhood, do you remember Paddington Bear? He came from "Darkest Peru" and ate marmalade sandwiches. (I also remember that he used to fix people with a "hard stare" when he didn´t like them). Well, so far I have not managed to find any bears in Peru, and it´s damn difficult to find a decent marmalade sandwich. 2. Peru is full of badly designed toilets, where the door is right next to the urinals. Why just the other day I was having a sprinkle, and the door opens, revealing my John Thomas to everyone in the restaurant outside. 3. It is common in many small towns for shops to have no change. You are then forced to walk out without your ... read more



Condors and Canyons

Published: September 10th 2007South America » Peru » Arequipa » Colca Canyon
LobsterCheeks icon
LobsterCheeks
August 21st 2007

Our next stop was Colca Canyon, "The Deepest Canyon in the World". This is actually a bare-faced lie. It´s the second deepest in the world, but is generally misrepresented and misquoted. The deepest canyon is a few doors down, but is rarely visited for some reason. Our accommodation was in a nearby village, and it was here that I feasted on a new type of meat. VEGETARIANS PLEASE STOP READING HERE. Every county I visit, I always try the local cuisine and national dishes, and I am particularly keen on trying new meats. On my carnivorous travels I have tried frogs, crocodile, buffalo, snails, guinea pig, wild boar, bison, kangaroo, horse, antelope, rabbit and ostrich. (my personal favourite is horse. Rich and very tender) So I was delighted to try alpaca! For those of you who ... read more



Earthquakes and Eggwhites

Published: September 10th 2007South America » Peru » Lima
LobsterCheeks icon
LobsterCheeks
August 18th 2007

On Wednesday 15th August, Southern Peru was hit by an earthquake which measured 8.0 on the Richter Scale. I was due to be in Lima that day, but luckily I was behind schedule by one day, nestled safely in the mountains about 7 hours away. But the earthquake was still felt in the nearest town to me, Huaraz. To put that in perspective, imagine an earthquake in Edinburgh being felt in London! The next day I headed to Lima, which was on the edge of the earthquake zone. And little did I know that more earthquakes were to come.... It was a 7-hour bus ride, but this time I was riding in luxury. Instead of some guy just throwing my backpack underneath the bus, I had to "check in" my bag at a counter. After having ... read more



The Danger of Dogs

Published: September 1st 2007South America » Peru » Ancash » Huaraz
LobsterCheeks icon
LobsterCheeks
August 14th 2007

My next stop was Huaraz, a mountain town known as the "capital" of the Peruvian Alps. This journey involved three buses and twenty consecutive hours of travelling time. At one of my bus changes, I noticed a family with a sheep in the bus terminal. This raises a couple of questions. 1. How did they get to the bus terminal? Trujilan was a large city, so I can´t imagine they walked from the countryside. Perhaps they took a cab. A sheep in a taxi? Imagine 2. They must have been in the bus terminal to catch a bus, since this is the primary purpose of a bus station!. Where exactly was the sheep going to go? In the luggage compartment underneath? Strapped to the roof? Wandering up and down the aisle of the bus? Or maybe ... read more






Tot: 0.118s; Tpl: 0.009s; cc: 17; qc: 54; dbt: 0.0239s; 1; s:apollo w:www (50.28.60.10); sld: 1; ; mem: 6.5mb