Penny Kane and Jamie Stewart

Kiwis Chasing Quetzals

Nearly Doctor Penelope and her gorgeous side kick travel from the land of the Kiwi to the land of the Quetzal.

We will be living in the mysterious city of Quetzaltenango (Xela) for three months. This blog will document our adventures...





Travel Blog Posts



I´ve been away for almost a week on a trip with the quetzaltrekkers through the villages of the Cuchumatane mountains, which less than 20 years was the scene of many devastating massacres during the civil war between the rightwing government army and the socialist Guerillas. Many young men were conscripted by force into the army only to have to kill their neighbouring villagers. Horrific happenings, and the people who survived all this still have the memories fresh in their minds. Hardly surprising that the villagers were a little wary of us as we passed through. Spent an interesting night staying with a family though who were prepared to talk to us about what it was like, and the current state of affairs for the people who live in the villages, which in short is pretty grim. ... read more




This was supposed to be a training hike, but with the cancellation of a tour group it became a fun trek up the hill behind Xela. Cerro Quemado - burnt hill - is 3300 metres of wrecked mountain, blown apart many thousands of years ago when it was estimated to be 6500 metres high and the highest mountain in the Americas Starting at Casa Argentina we had a 10 minute walk through town to the bottom of the hill, then it was up, up and up, first through pastures, then pine-rhododendron forests the trail winding through random volcanic rocks, steam vents and itchy ivy. The crux of the problem was the final ascent up through a corkscrew cave to the summit, where we had amazing views down on Xela and further to the east a massive ... read more




Santiaguito, west of Xela, is one of the top ten most active volcanoes in the world. Penny and I both had interesting trips their last month. Here are some photos and a short commentary... Santiaguito, my second trip in my time here in Guatemala, is one of Guatemalas more active volcanoes. It erupts approximately every half an hour, spewing out ash and hot rocks. It was our goal to go camp at the lookout point to see the red hot rocks and lava rolling down the mountain at night. However, we were destined not to make it as a good few hours into the trip we reached a 20m deep gorge which had wiped out the track. We were just debating which would be the best way to bush-bash when a gush of water several metres ... read more




Went to visit lake Atitlan with the kids from the home (hogar) a couple of weeks ago. We all piled on a chicken bus with the kids literally swinging off the rafters!Stayed at the house of the ´mum´of the hogar and got up at 4.30am to see the sunrise over possibly one of the most amazing looking lakes in the world, surrounded by cone peaks of volcanoes.Great for swimming too, although had to fish out a couple of the kids who have no idea how to swim but none-the-less launched themselves off the jetty! ... read more




The weekend started the usual way, 4.45 Quetzal Trekkers HQ. Eager clients, frazzled guides, a 10 minute ride to Minerva with Victor. Victor is a softly spoken Guatemalan pick-up driver, our main man, Minerva is Xela's biggest bus terminal dominated by a grandiose Parthenon like structure, one of many constructed by a past dictator whose headless statue graces one of our local parks. Our ride with Victor is a fun way to start a trip, hanging on the back of a pick-up zooming through the early morning streets. The only other people about are shady figures setting off fire crackers in doorways, their silhouettes exposed by sparks of gunpowder. The rumour mill suggests this is a friendly birthday custom, but on edge clients still start. This weekend is different however, Penny and I are sneaking off. ... read more




Jamies first three adventures on Santa Maria... read more




Time is passing in Guatemala, The trip to Tajumulco in the weekend went great (muy bueno). For me (Jamie) it will probably be the 1st of many as this is the trip I have been assigned to guide for the Quetzal Trekkers. Tajumulco is the highest point in Central America, 4220 metres. ... read more




Hola guys! First email out of guatemala. Please excuse the atrocious typing to come, most of the letters have rubbed off the keyboard ( how I wish I had learnt touch typing!) nad some have been replaced in twink but not always correctly. Jamie and I arrived in Xela (pronounced shay-la) our final destination after a long but not entirely unpleasant journey via auckland and LA. spent an after noon sleeping on the grass by samta monica beach (aka Baywaytch Beach) and was surprised to open my eyes and find myself staring up at a Pohutakawa tree ( I wonder what they call them in american?)Guatemala city seemes like an interesting, if not exceedingly grotty, city, but we didn{t stay long. I was glad to sleep most of the bus ride to Xela as Janie informes ... read more




So away we go chasing Quetzals. Quetzals while being the basic unit of money in Guatemala are also large trogons of Central America and South America having golden-green and scarlet plumage and long tails. The latter are beautiful birds virtually impossible to find the former are common gold coins which are virtually worthless. So far we have merely managed to get our hands on a few of the coins. We arrived in Xela (Shay-La) yesterday pretty shattered. The twelve hour flight from NZ to LA went without hitch. I (Jamie) was stoked with the new Air NZ entertainment system, plenty of games including who wants to be a millionaire... We also got to watch the Southern Traverse 2005 for the humour value. Arriving in LA we decided to visit Santa Monica beach, much to our surprise ... read more






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