An hour after I was supposed to have been collected, I was still sitting on a rock outside Textiles. The sunrise was impressive and birds began to sing their morning chorus. Still I waited. Eventually, the promised 4-wheel drive arrived, with not only Michael (a random German tourist Clare had met in a shop and introduced to me to share the costs of going to Nechisar National Park) but an American couple, working in Addis, an Ethiopian living in Germany and his friend from Addis, in Arba Minch on holiday. Crowded, but cheap! Our guide, Kapo - who is mentioned by
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