Nobody can quite prepare you for the sensory weapon that India is, unleashing every sensory explosion that it has developped over it's colourful history. We have been fortunate enough to be travelling with Ganesh, a 26 year old Bangalorian who has brought India to life for us through our ceaseless questioning. Although this has been a guided overland tour through North India to Kathmandu (with Intrepid Travel), we have been using local transport, small guesthouses and local guides for temples, monuments and place of interest. We get the best of both worlds, maintaining the feeling of being close to local 'reality' that independent travel affords, but with the absolute bliss of not having to think about the tricky logisitcs of getting hither and thither. Four days ago we were in Varanasi, which we were all looking
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