We travelled to Nikko via Shinkansen (bullet train) and then transferred to a local train, arriving about 8pm when most of the town was closed. Our leader brought out the origami paper when we were on the local train and had us making paper cranes - which had the locals in stitches and soon the whole car was involved in the process. I'm afraid they despaired of us ever having the ability to grasp the finer points, but at the same time were quite taken with the attempt. Everyone from school children to seniors got involved. This is truly the upside to small group travel and using local transit. Our ryokan was perfect, the Toshogu shrine absolutely breathtaking, the local hikes outstanding, and the onsen - well, a great way to end the day. An onsen
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