EmmaAvery

Malembe is the Shangaane (local tribe) word for the Black Rhinoceros. One of the megafauna of Africa, they are territorial and shy. Smaller than the white rhino, they are also called the hook-lipped rhino, adapted to browsing rather than grazing. White rhinos are also larger and have a hump on their shoulders and rump, but more docile then the black rhino. I know each rhino by name now, Duchess, Zoli, Khuza, Thokamisa, Zulu, Buza, the list goes on. Released into the reserve three months ago, they are all young and still establishing their territories, which means their movement patterns are sparodic. Thokamisa has been the most reliable, almost always near the same lodge. Yesterday we had our first rhino siting, Deena watering near one of the damns. Francios spotted her through the trees, quite far off, ... read more

Paradise is quiet in the days early light, birds heralding the rising sun as it shines across the tree tops. I am alone in the kitchen, a moment of stillness before the hustle and bustle as each new day begins. My memories of the camp in Zimbabwe cling to the periphery of my conciousness as dew clings to leaves of grass, bombarded with familiar sounds and smells. The child that I was still stares in wonder at this world, the land humming with life, leaves rustling in a dry breeze, the sweet smell of thatching warmed by the sun. Red earth and thorny trees, laughing doves and the scolding of the Go-Away bird, these I remember. Rotini pasta with cream of mushroom soup and nights cold enough for a down vest are also things of the ... read more

Rock picking has not been one of my favorite past times. I remembeer being dropped off on Yarrow Creek with a "Be back in an hour!!!" and left there for......eons. Many hours during my teenage years were spent building wire baskets and then filling them with rocks to replace fence posts in the rocky creek crossings. In Africa though, it is much harder to find rocks. We mine them out of washouts and ravines, prospecting for good ones, the big ones that will not sink into an oblivion of red sand after one pass with the land rover. There is a boundary fence on the west side of the reserve, whether it is protecting the big five or the villages on the other side I am not quite sure, but the animals will be shot if ... read more

I am sweating and tired and completely satisfied. A cool drink in my hand, the fire is on, dinner is prepped and I am surrounded by the sound of laughter. I don't even know where to begin. My senses have been over-loaded, my hands worked to the bone but my soul is bursting with life. The call of the hyena regailed me at 5 am as the camp stirred to life and the adventure began in earnest. Every morning at 5:30 am we gather at the game tower to scan for rhinos using radio telemetry. Each rhino has a chip in its horn and a collar around one foot which sends out a radio signal which we can pick up and locate their position using an antena. The frequency of the signal indicates whether the animal ... read more