Gentle Reader, While this blog both begins and ends with a descent down a volcano, I can assure you that this is not in fact some smart-alec attempt at a literary device, but the precise chronological order in which things occurred. Natalie left us up Volcan Pacaya last week (not literally you understand, but in the blog). Unfortunately the slightly dodgy tour company that we'd chosen had neglected to inform all 15 or so of the people on the trip to bring a light for the descent. Nat had the presence of mind to bring the head torch, which meant we had two lights between about 15 of us (including the Guide). Thankfully (and despite the pitch black, sharp volcanic rocks, lava and fearsome Great White Sharks) for once I escaped without injury. This was a
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