It's reassuring to know that after 18 months, I can still remember how to eat a meal solely with the use of my right hand. Nice to know also that I can switch to Pinglish at a moment's notice, and can find my way through the backstreets of Kathmandu without a map. Less pleasant memories of travelling also put in a reappearance: The pollution here is so bad that within a morning I am covered in a layer of grime, and when i blow my nose the contents are a nasty black sludge. And after 18 months of Europe, my nose seems less immune than it used to be to the less pleasant smells of this city. Nonetheless, it's fantastic to be back. This being my fourth visit to Nepal, there's none of the culture shock ... read more

So I'm glad to say that I managed to summon up one last bit of energy for a final period of trekking before the end of the year. The problem with getting out of Kathmandu to actually do something is summoning up the enthusiasm to sit on a bus for 10+ hours surrounded by sweaty Tibetans, chickens, goats etc etc etc on what can kindly be described as a very rough dirt track. Definitely not a road. The "highlight" of this bus journey was undoubtedly watching some of the locals puke into plastic bags during the journey (then chucking the bags out of the window), whilst smugly feeling absolutely fine! Anyway the walks in question were the Langtang trek, combined with parts of the newly opened "Tamang Heritage Trail." The former being a proper mountain walk ... read more

The last week or so is going to be almost impossible to describe, certainly in a way that does it any justice. But I will try my best, and hope that some photos make up for my lack of literary talent. I said I wanted to experience some "real Nepal", and my prayers were certainly answered. Oh, by the way, I have had some emails wondering (given the lack of photos of me) whether I am really travelling, or just sat on my arse in England or France. Given that my ridiculous ginger beard has recently been removed, I am happy to include some photos of me this time! Perhaps the way to start is a random list of some memories: 1) The morning after my arrival in the village, Binod asks me if I want ... read more

After Gorak Shep I headed west over the Cho La (a fairly steep, slippery high pass on which sadly an Indian guy died a week previously) to the Gokyo valley. In the opinion of many, as nice as the main Everest valley, this place gets relatively few tourists. Gokyo village itself (4700m) is situated next to a large lake, and again it's main claim to fame is a small hill behind town (Gokyo Ri, 5500m) from where again you get yet more views of Everest, Lhotse, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, and Cho Oyu. Unlike Gorak Shep, this village is actually nice. What's more the guesthouse that I stayed in gives you a free room for the night, as long as you don't have a guide or porter. So I spent a few days here exploring the various ... read more