The streets, buildings and people of Ulaan Baatar form a riotous assembly, a motley crew. The days when one would charge down the main street astride a galloping steed, loose a few arrows then decapitate your brother-in-law with a double-headed axe are largely gone. These days the chariot of choice is the automobile. The great Chinggis Khan, were he alive, would understand as well as anyone that you cannot conquer the largest empire mankind has ever seen by respecting traffic lights, zebra crossings or even the direction of traffic flow on dual carriageways. The next kamikaze Japanese game show will feature the amiable, over-excited contestants traversing the roads of U.B., from Khongor Guest House to the nearest internet cafe, to the ATM at the Trade and Development Bank, gaining extra points for each limb that remains
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