As most China travellers know Xi'an is one of the oldest cities in the Middle Kingdom. It is one of the four ancient capitals, home to many great and important dynasties including the Sui, Han, Qin and Zhou, and of course the home of the Terracotta Warriors. Xi'an is a city steeped in history, oozing culture and dripping with old world touristy charm. When I arrive, I step bleary eyed out of the gloomy terminal at the station into blinding sunshine and a giant blue-grey wall. The wall which surrounds Xi'an sits like a giant Lego fortress around the intricate maze of civilisation. At first glimpse it appears ugly and foreboding, casting lengthy shadows on a clean, crisp day. Journal 27th July Almost 20 hours on a train, about 3 hours sleep and a wander about
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