There are two kinds of Arctic problems, the imaginary and the real. Of the two, the imaginary are the most real. Vilhjalmur Stefansson. I have become quite familiar with Yellowknife airport. It is a small, single terminal, three-gate affair, with a nice coffee bar called Javarama. I also know Pete, the guy at the desk. And Sarah, and Kevin. Much of our five days in Yellowknife were consumed by dealing with flight cancellations and delays, switching airlines and re-handling our massive amounts of freight. I have even started calling the airport by its international three-letter code now ‘YZF’. It’s just what happens I guess? However, as the expression alludes to, ‘good things come to those who wait’. The eight of us eventually boarded a Buffalo Airways,1938, Douglas DC-3. This vintage aircraft took us into Canada’s high ... read more

Firstly, Irkutsk (Иpкyтcк) is not to be confused with Yakutsk (Якyтcк). Irkutsk (south of Yakutsk), a vibrant, artsy city dotted with beautiful and fun sculptures was where we spent a lot of our time wandering along the waterfront admiring the Angara River. The city told a story of shiny, golden-domed cathedrals, glittering marble buildings and collapsing wooden houses that were being consumed by permafrost deterioration. Fishermen lined the river banks, while young cadets marched by the war memorial. Vibrant outdoor markets pulsed in the city centre. As we prepared to order food in Russian at the fashionable Irish Pub in the flashy, yet unimaginatively named, 130-Kvartal Neighbourhood, we were pleasantly surprised as to the waiter’s English-speaking ability, and the English menu that he presented to us after he heard us struggling with what to say in ... read more

"Follow the Moskva, down to Gorky Park, listen to the wind of change." Opening lyrics 'Wind of Change' by The Scorpions Finally making it to Russia (Рoccия), we enjoyed Moscow (Москва) during their quiet season. Some snow on the ground and sub-zero temperatures meant for short line-ups and few tourists. The joys of travelling at these times. Our home base was near to the core of the city where we enjoyed the beautiful Red Square, St Basil's Cathedral and the mighty Kremlin. Wandering the Kremlin grounds was awe-inspiring. Cathedrals, statues, big bells and big cannons. And don’t forget the golden onions! Incredible riches of Russia's imperial past sit in secure display cases inside the Kremlin walls. The armoury houses thousands of priceless golden pieces, bejewelled with diamonds, emeralds and sapphires. The collection is so sickly overwhelming ... read more

If you have never been at sea in a heavy gale, you can form no idea of the confusion of mind occasioned by wind and spray together. They blind, deafen, and strangle you, and take away all power of action or reflection. Edgar Allen Poe. Coffee with Joan - Ushuaia, Argentina One of my favourite books about the early explorers of the Antarctic is ‘The Storied Ice.’ It’s an easy-to-read book with accounts of many different explorers that ventured south during the age of exploration during the turn of the twentieth century. The expeditions of Adrien de Gerlache in the Belgica, Jean Francois Charcot and the Porquoi Pas, and the epic race to the South Pole between the Norwegian, Roald Amundsen and the British, Captain Scott. It’s a great book, one that I use as a ... read more

“The inner part of the country was not less savage and horrible: the wild rocks raised their lofty summits till they were lost in the clouds and the valleys laid buried in everlasting snow. Not a tree or shrub was to be seen, no not even big enough to make a tooth-pick.” Captain James Cook, 1777 Mt Brown overlooks the administrative capital of King Edward Point and the old whaling station of Grytviken. Hiking to the summit was my first venture into the interior - it is a stunning place! The flat areas are really wet and swampy, the hills are steep and rocky – it’s a harsh environment. The view from the windy summit was superb – I was surrounded by a tangle of rugged glaciated peaks, deep valleys and fjord systems. Ah! South Georgia… ... read more