Catherine Pope

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Travel Blog Posts


USA - Roller Ride

Published: April 29th 2010North America » United States » Arizona
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April 29th 2010

Within a couple of hours of arriving at our hostel I was hit with jet lag - probably the worst I had experienced. Without warning I was unsteady on my feet and my vision swam. Then the hallucinations hit and the swimming pool tipped to one side and poured water across the concrete. Then a few seconds it tipped the other way. “Hot damn sheeee-itt !” burst forth from an extremely large African American standing next to me. “Ah don’ b’lieve it ma-han! We’ve dunn garn an’ got us a darn rollll-errr!” I looked up at him “What’s a roller?” “Ma-han ladieee we’ve garn andjus’ had us an earthquake. Shheee-it!” Confusion ranged within my befuddled brain. When the extremely large American spoke I was convinced I was on a film set, but when I looked around ... read more



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April 18th 2010

The Fijians quickly realised that while “Uncle” did not need any help getting in and out of boats “Auntie” was a disaster. At one point it was clear that I was never going to manage to get out of the sea where I had spent a happy hour snorkelling. The thought that perhaps they would throw me a rope and drag me the 20 minute journey back to the island was drifting through my water soaked head when the huge Fijian standing in the tiny rocking boat leant over and plucked me right out of the water and placed me gently in the boat. “Okay, Auntie?” he smiled “Yes thank you,” was my dignified response. I sat quietly for a minute and then giggled. Big Berri threw back his head and the South Pacific echoed with ... read more



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April 5th 2010

We continued along Highway 35 which follows the Pacific coast. This is possibly the most remote area of New Zealand that we have hitherto driven through. Wellington was a delightful introduction to the North Island, a pretty city with an excellent museum and easy to like. From there on to Napier and up to Gisborne which is supposed to be the sunniest town in New Zealand. It certainly has an excellent second hand bookshop! All easy and pretty straightforward. And then Highway 35, remote, isolating and quite different to any area we had come across to date. For the first time we found ourselves in real Maori country and signs of their culture and style mixed with poverty, desolation and shattering splendour threatened to overwhelm. Ridges of mountains on our left, narrow beaches unfriendly with grey ... read more



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March 20th 2010

BEAUTIFUL SOUTH - the final days Everyone has to see the glaciers - Fox and Franz. They are astonishing. The only glaciers that reach into sub tropical forests. We walked to the faces of the Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier- you can walk really close to them through desolate landscape and let your imagination enjoy watching them creep. They are beautiful. We would love to have added to the incessant noise pollution and taken a plane or helicopter ride but they are so expensive - they are for the budget traveller anyway and we couldn’t justify the price. Not even I could and I am pretty nifty at price justification. The sun shone brilliant in an ice blue sky. Bad weather was due to close in but for today all was perfection. All the other ... read more



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March 4th 2010

Pressing on south. The weather cold, wet and grim. Clouds scudding in from the south. Antarctica touched wind blows. We get to Nugget Point and stand at the base of the light house with cliffs on either side and dark clouds rolling in from the southern sea. Below us waves crash and fur seals swim, safe these days from hunters. In a large pool amongst the rocks far, far below us seal pups practice their swimming and diving. We can hear their calls catch in the upswept breeze. It is lonely here. There are people, visitors like us, but it is lonely and beautiful. On we drive the scape ever changing. Brown fields, green hills, hills covered in sheep. A field with a large bull juxtaposing another small field with two llamas, a reindeer and two ... read more



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February 23rd 2010

With the softest of warm breezes just touching my cheek and the glow of the late afternoon sun warming my back I could be the only person in the world. I cannot hear anything of man about me. There is a small outburst from some distant birds and the hum of insects is a constant all around. I sit silently absorbed by the view. There is a soft plop, schluk, plop behind me. Foot falls quietly approach. I do not need to turn for I recognise the sound - it is the footfall of a duck crossing the gravel road. New Zealand - a place where you can hear ducks walk! Although less than a fortnight here my feelings are ambivalent. On the one hand I am totally in love with New Zealand - the beauty, ... read more



Australian Interlude

Published: February 20th 2010Oceania » Australia » New South Wales » Byron Bay
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February 20th 2010

Thank goodness for the emergency services that is all that I can say. I really do not think that the essential life saving role that they play in our lives is properly recognised and one in particular is seriously overlooked - the Hairdresser. I entered Australia barely able to see my way off the plane with my fringe sweeping in straggles across my eyes. My roots thudded across the immigration floor. Split ends entangled themselves in the luggage carousel. 2 days later I knew that murder would be committed very soon unless something was done. The hairdressers of Byron Bay are expensive and they required detailed explanations of what I wanted plus there was no room for an appointment for at least a day. I don’t have time, money or energy for any of them. I ... read more



Briefly Singapore and Thailand

Published: February 4th 2010Asia » Thailand
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February 4th 2010

Thirty-three Singapore Dollars plus ten percent service charge plus government tax is how Raffles Hotel keeps backpacking scum like us out. Lovely white colonial building tinkling with gentle music. Quiet understated elegance. Cool courtyard and plush bars. Carefully modulated tones. All stricken to a standstill by... “How much for a gin sling? Timothy, this is ridiculous. We are not paying that.” Yes that is right, for once I am the penny pinching sand crab tightie. Tim’s face fell, but I stood firm against the blatant rapacious greed of the capitalistic imperialistic overpriced tourist trap-ist Raffles. Silently Tim, Hugh and Arlene followed me out and instead we went back to the hostel where the boys had beer and the girls shared a bottle of cold white wine. All for less than Thirty-three Singapore dollars plus ten percent ... read more



Agra and Beyond

Published: January 23rd 2010Asia » India
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January 23rd 2010

Slammed by a myriad of conflicting experiences, thoughts, emotions encountered on this trail of the Taj Mahal, Khajuraho of the Karma Sutra Temples and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world - Varanasi. Delighted by people and irritated by people. Loving the pure interest and naivety of rural men watching us with enchantment and intense interest as we stop for a cup of chai and irritated by portentous and pretentious “spiritual” meanderings of men who are keen to serve a helping of enlightenment designed for the western mind. Oh yes we are Back in the fray! Tim and I met up with Hugh and Arlene in Delhi. Without pause to think the next day we started the long drive to Agra. Not without its irritating delay. The car that arrived to pick us ... read more



Hot , More Hot and Very Hot in Kerala

Published: January 16th 2010Asia
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January 14th 2010

Roi, my new boyfriend turned around and waved his arm out of the bus window. "Are you looking at this?" he demanded "This is very beautiful. You must look!" "I am looking Roi," I responded mildly "It is lovely!" I was sitting squashed into the side of a government bus winding up through the tea plantations making my way to Thekaddy. The bus sddenly stopped and Roi dashed out and returned with some Satsumas. He handed me one. "For you! Eat it!" I thanked Roi while Liz, who was sitting next to me smirked. "I think that may be a betrothal present," she muttered. I made sure she shared it with me. So how did we get to the point where Tim and I are separated by a bus length and I am contending with the ... read more






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