The Ecuadorian Expat Experiment

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Why pack up and move to Ecuador? Why not? As we try to make our way in South America, we'll be chronicling our successes and failures, our attempts to learn the culture and the language, and our experiences as strangers in a strange land. Sure, they'll be some traveling as well, but mostly we'll be figuring out Cuenca as best we can. Join us on our adventure.

Our Time As Expats




Travel Blog Posts


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March 31st 2012

Once again, it’s been a while since the last installment of our South American adventures. Post-border crossing and robbery, we settled into our new beachside apartment. It doesn’t take long to get to know the town of Huanchaco. There was a movie-themed Carnaval parade that didn't take place on Mardi Gras but on the following weekend. But we’ve basically been enjoying quiet days (and nights) and enviable sunsets. So when Chris was asked by Cuenca friends Karen and Donovan to help them out at a travel conference in Lima, she was happy to take the diversion and go to the big city. She jumped on the 8-hour “Super VIP” overnight bus, and woke up in Lima on Leap Day. This was not her first trip to the town, but the last time she was there was ... read more



Stealing Away

Published: February 3rd 2012South America » Peru » La Libertad » Huanchaco
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February 3rd 2012

On Thursday, we had one last lunch at the California Kitchen and headed over to the Cuenca bus station. To get to the North Coast of Peru, the quickest way is to cross at the coast... however, this crossing is notable for its sketchiness. So, we decided to cross into Peru at the mountain crossing, near Macara, for caution's sake (in literature, this would be called foreshadowing). This also gave us a chance to spend our last night in Ecuador in Loja, other than Cuenca our favorite place in the country. We had some tamales and empanadas at url=http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ecuador/the-southern-highlands/loja/restaurants/south-american/el-tamal-lojanoEl Tamal Lojano, and a couple of drinks at url=http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ecuador/the-southern-highlands/loja/entertainment-nightlife/pub/el-viejo-mineroEl Viejo Minero. Friday morning, we headed out early for the long bu... read more



Galapagos and Goodbye

Published: January 26th 2012South America » Ecuador » South » Cuenca
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January 26th 2012

All the festivities of the recent months winding down, after New Year's we started to prepare for the next chapter of our journey in Peru. Our friend Robert and the Evans family from California Kitchen threw us a wonderful farewell dinner, and there was a fun, if rainy, street festival for Epiphany. While sorry to say goodbye to our friends and Cuenca, we felt ready to move on. But first, we had some unfinished business. The Galapagos Islands are by far the biggest tourist attraction in Ecuador, known for both their natural beauty and historical importance. They're also by far the most expensive. However, thanks to Chris' work with IntoLatinAmerica.Com, we were able to visit them without paying full frieght. On Monday night, we headed down to Quayaquil, only to have our heart broken when we ... read more



Feliz Ano

Published: January 1st 2012South America » Ecuador » South » Cuenca
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January 1st 2012

So, this is the New Year. After all the eating and revelry of Christmas, we had a few days of rest before another party weekend came upon us. Like most of the world, New Year's Eve in Cuenca is an excuse to celebrate with friends and families. But, of course, there are a few unique traditions. During the day, the streets were brimming with people. One of the big traditions is shooting fireworks and burning effigies at midnight (or, really, all day). Rather than burning in anger, however, the effigies are supposed to bring good luck for whoever they represent for the coming year (burning away of the old, rebirth, that sort of thing). People paraded around town with plaster figures tied to their dashboard, their roofs, their truck cabs. Smurfs were particularly popular, but plenty ... read more



La Navidad

Published: December 29th 2011South America » Ecuador » South » Cuenca
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December 29th 2011

As is does every December, the holiday season smacked us in the face again, but this year, it lacked a certain winter chill. We missed celebrating with our family and friends in Los Angeles/Park City, New Jersey, and Chicago, but it was pretty incredible to experience Christmas in new part of the world. By the end of Christmas night, we found ourselves making a list of other places where we want to spend Christmas. We started things North American style. Christmas cookies don’t seem to be a big tradition here, but Chris had to indulge in holiday baking so she had some friends over for a Christmas cookie-baking marathon. (Justin snuck off to the bar to watch football that day, but was happy to eat the results later that night). Jen brought family recipes. Susie brought ... read more



Ceviche and Turkey

Published: November 30th 2011South America » Ecuador » South » Cuenca
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November 29th 2011

Well, hopefully you weren't waiting breathlessly. Yes, we were able to get back to Ecuador (legally). No matter what anybody tells you, if you do it in a certain order, you can stay in Ecuador for a year on tourist visas (it's like pushing buttons in a certain order in a video game to unlock stuff). We packed up our bags, and left the rest of our stuff in shippable boxes with our friend Jim. We hadn't yet experienced the great Deportivo Cuenca futbol team in person, so we went to see them beat F.C. Manta like a drum at noon on Sunday. Afterwards, we celebrated one potentially last afternoon of NFL Red Zone at the Inca. On Monday morning, we headed out, passing through Loja on our way to the crossing at Macara, finally ending ... read more



Livin' In Limbo

Published: October 22nd 2011South America » Ecuador » South » Cuenca
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October 22nd 2011

Wow... it's been two months since our last entry. It isn't that anything has been wrong, it's just that things have been a bit hum-drum. First of all, until the past week, Cuenca has been grey every single day for months. Our new apartment has lots of big windows and a great view of the mountains. For most of the 3 months we've lived here, we've watched the daily procession of low lying clouds floating by, every day, punctuated by brief periods of rain and of sunshine. It wasn't really cold (although others might disagree), but it was oppressively blah. Also, from the middle of August through the beginning of September, most Ecuadorians take a vacation. Even though it's a rainy time even at the beach, families flock there for a break. Which meant that Cuenca ... read more



A Little Jungle Adventure

Published: August 22nd 2011South America » Ecuador » South » Gualaquiza
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August 21st 2011

Finished with our preschool job, we had a week before Chris started Spanish school and Justin started teaching at a short summer school program. The beach is overcast and cold this time of year, so we headed out to the other direction…to the Amazon basin jungle. Most of Ecuador’s jungle tourist spots are farther north, accessible from Quito or Baños, but we stayed closer to Cuenca into the country’s southern Oriente. It was like a road trip without a car... each day we spent a couple of hours on a bus, explored a new little town, and searched for someplace to have dinner, usually ending up with the ubiquotous roasted chicken. First stop was Mendez, an extremely small town. In about an hour we found a room in the one hotel, walked through the center of ... read more



The End Of The First Chapter

Published: July 24th 2011South America » Ecuador » South » Cuenca
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July 22nd 2011

Why the long wait, you ask? Certainly, some irritatingly persistent internet issues and a stretch of pure laziness had something to do with it. But, in a sign that we may be becoming more well-balanced, the narcissism necessary for a constant chronicling everyday life seems to have taken a vacation. It's not that we haven't done anything fun in the past month. As June turned to July, we had a visit from Mark Zanatta, one of our oldest friends. Given his duties as a husband, father, and bulwark of the Chicago restaurant economy, he was only able to get away for a prolonged 4th of July weekend (or as it's known to him, the Canada Day weekend). Since he was only here for four days, we decided it wasn't worth taking the time to explore elsewhere ... read more



The Sweet and the Sour

Published: July 2nd 2011South America » Ecuador » South » Cuenca
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June 28th 2011

First the sweet. Last Thursday was Corpus Christi, a Catholic feast day, that kicked off a week of festivities in Cuenca. Our guidebooks tell us that this holiday absorbed several harvest festival traditions that predate the arrival of Spanish to Ecuador, so even for a pretty Catholic country this celebration seems bigger than usual. We've now seen a lot of holidays here - Carnival, Cuenca Day, Battle of Pichincha Day - but Corpus Christi could be the best as it involves some serious eating. The town's central Parque Calderon becomes a giant candy store as wall-to-wall vendors sell all kinds of chocolates, cookies, and meringues. While there hardly needs to be an occasion to warrant fireworks here, the displays this week have seemed particularly large. And on Thursday night, there was a big "url=http://www.elmercurio.com.ec/285798-la-fiesta-de-la-musica-inicio-con-buena-vi... read more






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