Nov 12th: We hiked a full morning mid-way up the hill on the south side of the valley on our way to the village of Lapa. As I began reading "The Snow Leopard" by Peter Matthiessen his description of the first days of their trek north of Pokhara fit our walk perfectly (minus the rain, our weather was beautiful). The farmers we walked by were tilling with primitive tools and their buffalo, women were thrashing the millet on straw mats, children were playing and happy, shouting "Namaste!" as we passed. This day I was in the middle of the pack, and
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