John Cornacchia

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Blogfather y figlia goes to Sicily, the island of endless calories.



Travel Blog Posts


Back to Palermo

Published: August 5th 2007Europe » Italy » Sicily » Palermo
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July 12th 2007

On our last day full day in Sicily we grabbed an early morning taxi and rushed to Marina Lunga to catch the ferry to Palermo. The only problem was all ferries to Naples and Palermo were grounded due to bad (windy) weather. We exchanged our tickets for a hydrofoil ride to Milazzo, which is a straight (short) shot back to the mainland. From there we boarded a train to Palermo and enjoyed the 2.5 hour train ride along the coast. It allowed us to see a bit of the countryside paticularly between Cefalu and Porticello. Sabrina gratiously picked us up at Stazione Centrale and we were wisked off to our hotel. Later that afternoon as a farewell tribute to Sicily we visited Museo Archaelogica Regionale and the Ars Siciliae exhibition held in the Palazzo dei Normanni ... read more



Isola di Lipari

Published: August 5th 2007Europe » Italy » Sicily » Lipari
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July 11th 2007

We headed north from Taormina for about 25 minutes to the port town of Messina. The Ustica hydrofoil station and ticket office were easy to find and were just a short distance to the Europcar dropoff point. We arrived in the town of Lipari at the Marina Lunga after a relatively calm 45 minutes crossing of the Straits of Messina. Our hotel, Villa Meligunis was conveniently located near the other marina, Marina Corta. After breakfast we would walk the short distance (150 meters) to the marina where we met Giancarlo and boarded the Alice, a comfortable 8 meter motorboat. For the first two days, we toured Lipari and Salina by boat. On day three we took a break from the water and visited the Duomo and Museo Archeologico. On the fourth day we were back on ... read more



Taormina

Published: August 5th 2007Europe » Italy » Sicily » Taormina
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July 5th 2007

We reluctantly left Siracusa and drove north to Taormina. The 45 minute drive skirted Catania through bumper-to-bumper traffic. We thought the worse was over once we exited the highway and began to drive the steep approach to Taormina. After making three failed attempts to penetrate the hilltop (more like cliff top) defenses of Taormina we parked the car and set out by foot to find Grand Hotel Timeo . The problem was that the main porta had been closed off to traffic making it very difficult to navigate to the front entrance of the hotel which was located near the base of the Roman-Greek amphitheatre (with or without the TomTom). At one point we took a wrong turn into a steep descending winding street so narrow that we had to fold back both side view mirrors.....Unfortunately ... read more



Siracusa: Ortygia Island

Published: August 6th 2007Europe » Italy » Sicily » Siracusa
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July 3rd 2007

From Caltigirone we cut across the interior of Sicily passing farm land and distant views of Mt Etna, to the East coast and made a right turn (south). We arrived in Siracusa after about two hours of uneventful driving and spent the next three nights on the island of Ortygia. Orytgia, the site of the original settlement (Citta Vecchia) is the jewel of what remains of ancient Siracusa. During its prime (Greek Period; 2nd to 7th century BC), Siracusa rivaled Athens in size and importance before falling to the Romans in 212 AD. Several key ancient battles ocurred within the surrounding harbor including the defeat of the Athenian armada during the Sicilian Expedition of the Peloponnesian War and the siege by Rome. (According to our guide, the harbor is probably still littered with the remains of ... read more



Villa of the Rich and Famous

Published: August 8th 2007Europe » Italy » Sicily » Piazza Armerina
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June 30th 2007

This morning we checked out of Gigliotto and backtracked north to Piazza Armerina and then west about 2 or 3 miles to Villa Romana Del Casale. The remains of this roman villa contain over 3,500 square meters of mosaics, many of which were preserved by a landslide that occurred in the 12th century. The villa is of uncertain origin, i.e. the owner has not been identified, but one thing is clear, the owner(s) led the high life of a typical Roman mogul. The mosaics give a glimpse into Roman life in the 2nd to 4th centuries AD, particularly the privileged class. In additions to baths, public latrines, scenes of the hunt and mythological struggles, there were glimpses of Roman erotic art. We completed our tour, and headed back past Piazza Armerina and Gigliotto south about 20 ... read more



Agrigento: Valley of the Temples

Published: August 7th 2007Europe » Italy » Sicily » Agrigento
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June 29th 2007

Our visit to Agrigento and tour of the Valley of the Temples was our first introduction to the ancient Greek cities in Sicily. The ruins in Agrigento, or Acragas of the ancient Greeks (Agrigentum, to the Romans) were impressive. The archaeological park is best experienced with the aid of knowledgeable guide such as Luigi Napoli who guided us through the park and museum for over six hours. His knowledge (and enthusiasm) of history gave us a sense of ancient life and made our visit to Agrigento most enjoyable. The size and scope of the ancient city was a clear indication of the significant role that Acragas must have played in 5th century BC western civilization. According to Luigi, it is estimated that at it's peak the population of Acragas was probably close to 200,000 and as ... read more



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June 27th 2007

We zigzagged back down the mountain from Erice back over to A29 and drove southeast towards Agrigento via SS118. We ate our salami and cheese panini (prepared in Erice), fresh almonds, and cherries . Along the way we watched the cars passing on blind curves (with many near collisions) and many more wildfires. The countryside was similiar to California, golden hills with patches of small farms that included vineyards, olive orchards and a host of other fruit/nut crops. It reminded me of the old California Central Valley i.e. long before the strip malls, roadside motels and surburban sprawl. We traveled out of the Trapani district into the Agrigento region and reached Raffadali in about two hours. From there, we wound our way north into the countryside first passing the small town of Sant'Elisabetta as we headed ... read more



Visiting the Elymians

Published: August 7th 2007Europe » Italy » Sicily » Erice
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June 26th 2007

As we left Mondello for the last time, we picked up our guide Sabrina in Palermo for one final visit to the historic center. So technically speaking, I did drive in Palermo and lived to talk about it. The blackouts were in full bloom and wildfires continued to burn. We parked the car near Teatro Massimo and walked to the Museo Archeologico only to find by way of a hastily scribbled sign that it was closed due to blackouts....the best we could figure was that the staff closed the museum after the first blackout in the morning and never returned (after the power came back on). Oh well.....time for a lemon granita. After we said our goodbyes to Sabrina we headed on to A29 towards Trapani and arrived in Segesta about 40 minutes later. Segesta, founded ... read more



Porticello By The Sea

Published: August 7th 2007Europe » Italy » Sicily » Santa Flavia
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June 25th 2007

With six water bottles in hand we left Mondello and set off for the Capuchin Catacombs and then on to the seaside villages of Porticello and Sant'Elia which are about 20 Km east of downtown Palermo. The weather was broiling, apparently it reached 42 C (108 F) but what was most striking were the number of wildfires around the freeways, in the moutains and well, pretty much everywhere. It appeared that a single "amphibious bomber" was dispatched to drop water on these hundreds of fires (kinda like spitting on a bonfire). The plane would land briefly on the ocean to take-in water then rush off to drop it's load. The Capuchin Catacombs of Palermo were as billed; grotesque and eerie. As we descended into the Catacombs the temperature dropped about 10 degrees. The location of corpses ... read more



It's Good To Be The King

Published: August 5th 2007Europe » Italy » Sicily » Palermo
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June 24th 2007

Palermo was sizzling. The Scirocco (winds) from North Africa are blowing and temperatures were going up and up (and yes sand is in the air). We are averaging about 2-3 water bottles per day minimum each. Blackouts are becoming a common theme due to the overload of the electrical system because of widespread A/C use. But all is not lost....the A/C in our Golf continues to work like a charm. Today Sabrina guided us into the world of the Normans (of french Normandy) and Saracens of the 9th - 13th centuries. We are beginning to understand why Sicily was so prized (and invaded) over the past 20+ centuries. Palermo, for example, was literally an oasis set between two rivers. The Saracens piped the water into an elaborate complex of palaces and pleasure gardens with fairly exotic ... read more






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