After a month of following the maps and directions along the Camino de Santiago, today we were on our own as we cycled toward Digoin where we can hook up with the Eurovelo Route 6, which will take us towards Switzerland. Bill had printed out cycling directions for Montbrison from viaMichelin.com, but we ended up making up our own route as we cycled through the Gorge du Loire along the Loire River. This gorge was not as scenic as the Lot Gorges, but it provided plenty of beautiful views. The first 40 kms. from Le Puy to Retournac were easy, flat. Then we climbed and climbed some more above the Loire River. An equal descent into Aurec sur Loire then more climbing, a bit unexpected as we thought the route along the river would be fairly ... read more

Ever since we left Santiago de Compestella on June 15, we have been following the Pilgrim Route which begins in Le Puy, France, and ends in Santiago, Spain. Of course, we’ve been traveling the route backwards as we head towards Switzerland, but today we reached Le Puy, the end or the beginning of the route, depending on how you look at it. We began the day with 15 kms. of climbing, fairly steep about half the time. Then it was 15 kms. of downhill -- beautiful, sweeping downhill. With just one or two problems. First, at the summit, Bill got a flat tire. A small tack. Just as we began to change the tire, we heard the dull, distant sound of thunder. About halfway down the mountain, the thunder got a lot closer. We got Lady ... read more

Blog -- July 8 Col d’Aubrac (The Summit of Aubrac) We dodged into our tent at 9 last night as the rain began, thankful that it had waited until bedtime to begin. Though I had feared it would be cold, it was actually quite comfortable. In fact, we zipped the vestibule of the tent closed but left the tent door itself wide open all night, probably not the smartest idea in the world, but no wild animals attacked us. We slept well, as usual. We’re not sure whether it’s the exercise, the nightly wine, or the fresh air -- but we have both slept well every night so far. The day began with an 8 kilometer climb to Salgues. We feared the worst as the topo map shows a very steep climb. We were both in ... read more

"Any traveling cyclist can relate the feeling of carefree abandon and catharis that pedaling evokes as layers upon layers of mental and emotional encrustations are shed. Each turn, each hill is another discovery, illuminating a place, a sensation and a perception until then hidden from view. Nothing is so utterly alive and well as the spirit of a traveler on a bicycle." ~ James E. Starr Another gorgeous, easy ride along the River Lot today. We stopped for a brief snack in the teeny, tiny town of Vieillevie. Just as we were preparing to leave, we heard music and saw a group of cyclists nearby. A quick look revealed a group called Odyssey of Hope (at least, I think that is the correct translation) -- two dozen or so physically handicapped cyclists riding who-knows-how-far with various ... read more

Today we biked short (Only 32 kilometers) to Cabrerets, in the Cele River Valley.. We had cycled up the valley of the Lot River to where the Cele enters the Lot and then into the Cele Valley. Anyhow, one kilometer up the side of the gorge from Cabrerets is one of the most famous caves in Europe, Pech-Merle Grotto. It has beautiful cave drawings dating from 25,000 to 20,000 years ago. We thought we were going to have to cycle a three kilometer road uphill to the cave. But when we signed in at the campground, the host told us of a one kilometer walking trail that would take us to the grotto. We walked the trail to enter a prehistoric time. The calcite walls of the grotto sparkled with red and black drawings of mammoths, ... read more