Awaking in Lombok for the last time, we avoided the damage caused by the Bali earthquake, and felt a mild but nevertheless disconcerting tremor. There was a small aftershock, moments after we, and the Senggigi locals, ran out onto the relative safety of the street. We then spent a very interesting and exciting four days and three nights aboard a small boat, with a crew of five Lombok locals and a motley menagerie mainly from some of Europe’s smaller nations and South America. This included an amusingly unhinged Swiss, Ephraim, whose mission it seemed to be to keep everyone entertained, with animal impressions, particularly that of the cockerel, and with general tomfoolery. On the last day he even persuaded the captain to let him pilot the boat. Every day, he wore a different makeshift earring in
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