A century ago (give or take, I'm part Irish, given to exaggeration and romanticism) my paternal grandfather left Ireland. I'm heading to the land of my Brady forefathers - and Synge, O'Casey, green hills and fine whiskey - for the first time, on a holiday that combines Dublin and an 8-day hiking tour of Galway, Connemara and the Aran Islands. You should come with me. ... full info