By no means does the title of this entry represent the halfway point of our journey (not even close), but rather an apt description of our return visit to Mongolia. We tossed up other potential openers, like "Tossed Salad", "Struck Down" and "Do the hokey-pokey and you shake it all about...that's what it's all about!", but the eventual winner became somewhat of a mantra for sections of our latest venture into the Mongolian wilderness. Coming back to this land has been bitter sweet. Sweet for the fresh air, the bluest of blue skies, the friendly, welcoming faces and the enormity of its untouched physical beauty. On the flip side has been the extraordinarily painful temperatures (Why, oh, why did we come back for more winter? It was -35 degrees Celsius the morning we left), the bone-jarring,
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